Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed some coolant on top of my radiator around the edges, does not seem to be coming from the centre. Futhermore i can here hissing noises coming from the raditor cap (sealed tight). No change in Engine tempreature and coolant level seems to be okay just wandering if these are signs thats its useful life is over.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405446-is-my-radiator-about-to-cark-it/
Share on other sites

Noticed some coolant on top of my radiator around the edges, does not seem to be coming from the centre. Futhermore i can here hissing noises coming from the raditor cap (sealed tight). No change in Engine tempreature and coolant level seems to be okay just wandering if these are signs thats its useful life is over.

Got pics of this? The cap could be stuffed and not sealing which will be a cheaper fix for you!

If you can show us where etc we should be able to help..... Whats the radiator look like in general? Any cracks or signs of fail?

UPDATE: turns out its a leak dudes being my bored self went down stairs to investigate the issue incase i missed something and barely able to see the little bubbling that happening at the bottom of the pastic of where the cap goes :domokun: this explains it, its a small leak nothing to bad, i think this means i need to change my radiator or find some type of sealent good enough to stop this little leak.

post-75998-0-36048900-1343119318_thumb.jpg

Dat alloy is tempting ill spray HKS in black on it (JKS), quick fix wont last long but just enough time for me to get cash and get in a new radiator, water pump and timing belt while im at it :yes: mech said he will need to take off radiator to the job so he can do the swap over while his at it, maybe save some coin.

Edited by starwarz

You'd be surprised how good the stock ones are.... I run 360rwkw and have no cooling issues and the race car (identical setup) does track day after track day and stock radiator ;)

Update: i have been searching the internet for aftermarket alloy radiators but so far all i find are Manual compatiable types, i hear you can fit the manual radiator along side an external transmission cooler. However i hear that its not efficent to have transmission hooked up to just an transmission cooler, it should only be used as a support mechanism for the actual radiator. Then again i hear that the R33 automatic is not hooked up to the radiator at all and is acutally running on this transmission cooler. So what do you guys think, will external transmission cooler along side an manual type radiator seem sufficient. If so how many rows should i consider i dont want to be sending my transmission to the grave.

Ill give it a go, changing it over does not seem like a difficult process might end up doing that myself. But im going to abandon manual radiator along side a external transmission cooler seems to be a very limited amount of information concerning that, it would be better to buy the proper radiator that can be hooked up to the transmission lines.
Edited by starwarz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...