Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I have a blitz dual sbc spec r which is holding boost fine but i want to change to a mac valve for the added functions when paired up with the ecu. I've read a lot of mixed opinions about the typical mac valve 3 port 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA especially them being bad on TT setups. For the guys that have had success

1.What frequency is your valve set to?

2.What boost are you running with the the boost controller off and actuator spring on it's own?

3.What is your high boost and duty cycle set to?

4.Does the valve get noisy? did you mount it with a rubber insulator?

also is any one running a dual solenoid setup like this? Any problems?

2daknbd.jpg

Edited by linkems
  • 8 months later...

As has been said, you should only run one MAC valve(running two relies on the valves flowing and responding electrically the same) - unless of course your ECM is capable of twin boost control (sm4) and you can monitor exh back pressure side to side and balance the turbos that way...

As for your questions

1. The minimum requested on time of the valve should not be less than the valve dead time, if fact I would stay a whole factor of 10 away from that. It's really irrelevant but start with around 20hz. What is of more importance when running a closed loop boost control is the feedback frequency. Depending upon you ecu's capability 30hz is a nice feedback rate.

2. What you really need to sort out is what the minimum boost your willing to run vs the maximum boost. For a single sided actuator I would not recommend running over twice the gate pressure unless you have a very competent boost controller. So if you want to run 30psi on high boost then the minimum act pressure I would run is 15psi to have the best of both worlds...

3. Everyone is going to have a different number here as it will depend on the car.

4. Yes rubber mount where possible they can vibrate a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...