Jump to content
SAU Community

Mobile Paint Repairs?

Murry33

By Murry33,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Murry33 Experienced

Murry33

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just did a search but could only really find those paintless dent removal places some threads.

I'm after a mobile paint person to come out and fix up some small scratches on a rear quarter panel+bumper. Can you recommend anyone around the northern suburbs?

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405947-mobile-paint-repairs/
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...
J_Red33 Experienced

J_Red33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

Thought I'd start this thread back up, rather than creating a new one.

I have been looking through previous recommendations for dent/paint repairers & am looking for some opinions.

I need a dent repaired on a front fender of my daily thanks to some careless 4WD type that decided it would be ok to shove their door into it.

Trouble is, they also took some of the clear off in the process, so ideally I'd get one person out to do the whole job. I don't however want some half assed repair job.

Color Touch Systems & SMART Paintworx, are the only companies I know of that do both jobs.

Has anyone had any experience with either of these compainies?

Other choices for dent removals are, Dents Away & Dent Masters

I've also seen something of son of rajab of the Dings, but he doesn't look like a mobile service.

For paint repairs I've found BAC2NU, Adelaide Topline Touch Ups, Superfinish Express, & Up To Scratch.

If anyone could make some recommendations for or against these (or others), it would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Jared

Edited by J_Red33
NSNR33 Apprentice

NSNR33

Posted
Posted

For dent removals, I highly recomend Dent Masters, they do all our cars at work (porsche's audi bmw etc cars) with great quality. Unsure of price due to it being thru the company, but they did a quick cash job for me on my old skylines door, the dent would of been the size of a coke can an approx 1cm deep (quite bad) and managed to get most of it out and looked good (for a black car) for $100

My money would be with them

NSNR33 Apprentice

NSNR33

Posted
Posted

Sorry to hijack the thread, but to answer your Q Tangles, if your looking for a crash repair shop down south to repair rust and repaint, I would put my money on Brighton Crash (from memory their next to Charlies diner, their situated on Sturt road if my memory is correct)

Went to tafe with one of their apprentices, and ive also seen the quality of work. Unsure of pricing and whatnot but its whome I would recommend if i wasnt a panel repairer myself.

Hope that helps answer your Q.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...