Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there guys,

Just wanted advice on performance on a r33 gtst 4 door automatic that i have just brought.

What the car has:

rb25det engine 230,000 km's

3inch turbo back.

Cold Air intake. (K&N pod with heat shield)

Yellow top Coils.

Hybrid frount mount intercooler.

Solenid been removed.

All done by previous owner.

took out the back (private) road on the gtech. ran 0-100km/h 6.1secs and 1/4 mile in 14.3secs @ 159km/h

almost stock times for a automatic from the research i have done.

What i have done so far is installed a turbosmart boost tee turned up half a turn and install a boost gauge.

I haven't had a chance to re gtech it but feels a tad quicker.

Just need some advice on what to do next, without changing turbo etc.

Walbro fuel pump? - heard they run quiest and are a direct replacement without rewiring.

ecu? - read or heard you need to put a r32 or r34 ecu in to be able to tune it. looking at nistune.

What my goal is, is to be able to alteast run into the mid 13's and atleast keep up with my modded Ford XR6T.

this car my have some history on here and someone on the forums may have owned it, the previous owner gave me the bullshit story the old

owner was a girl that never drove it hard.

The reason that i say this is the passanger side front door has been buffed but i can still faintly see a skylines australia sticker that was on the car.

the car is a 1993 r33gts25t silver with r34 wheels on it.

Thanks in advance.

Edited by tacticz

Is your car an Auto? Is see mention of Auto times there.

a Z32 300ZX or R32 Rb20 ECU + Rpm window switch for NVCS is what you need for Nistune/

Mid 13's is possible on sticky tyres and the standard turbo with a tune

I ran a 13.9 with a crap 2.1sec 60ft in my 33 coupe back in the day, I had a front mount, PowerFC and a 3" front pipe back exhaust

Yes it's a automatic. I'm actually surprised that it's hard to achieve good times with lots of work to these cars, never been a skyline fan

but the car was cheap at 3k so i had to have it, and loving the handling of it compared to my XR6T.

I know the falcon is 4L but intercooler, CAI, injectors, pump and tune can see 380rwkw for a much heavier car jumps into the 12s easy.

I think i need to move away from comparing em.

oh reary? Do you know of anyone who's able to tune standard r33 auto ecus in sa? otherwise it'll be an auto z32 tune for me

Only me in Australia but its not difficult.(very popular in Japan)

Just need tools.

Tools is R33 ecu daughter board (made in Japan), emulator , programmer, programmer adapter , chip and Nistune software.

http://www.skylinesa...__fromsearch__1

Z32 R32 ECU can not use R33 auto.

Only me in Australia but its not difficult.(very popular in Japan)

Just need tools.

Tools is R33 ecu daughter board (made in Japan), emulator , programmer, programmer adapter , chip and Nistune software.

http://www.skylinesa...__fromsearch__1

Z32 R32 ECU can not use R33 auto.

I'm in Adelaide, so to change the daughter board and dyno tune it would be $580? so all i'll need is to get a bigger fuel pump. might be worth the drive to you to get it done.

Also with the turbo internals, I have 1993 i assume it's a series 1 do they have the ceramic fins or metal ones?

Edited by tacticz

$580 is just basic dyno tune.

If you would like to full tune (road and dyno both tune) $700.

If you or me find 3 people in SA I can come to you.

Series 1 turbo is ceramic and metal.

Series 2 turbo is ceramic and plastic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...