Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i have had my car in for a rebuild for some time now... i have firstly waited some time to get some parts from japan which are needed. also my mechanic has been looking for a set of forged pistons for me and he came up with "Wiseco" being the best for price and quality... anyway i have been waiting for these pistons to be sent from the USA now for 3 months (its a fu@#ing joke). anyone ever had these problems or know of any place where i can get a set of these pistons asap? any help much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/
Share on other sites

I know how you feel croat... I've been waiting just over 10 weeks for my Greddy plenum to come from Japan... I just found out last week that when the plenum was sent, some tool put the box with plenum in it, into another box full of oranges... So when it came into Perth customs, they quarantined it straight away... They only discovered it by accident...

I have an offical letter from customs saying that i will have it by the 30th...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-65500
Share on other sites

Thats pretty bad luck METBLUE... lol oranges... are JE pistons any good? i have a budget of about $2000 max, hopefully a bit less. Thanks killerT can u please let me know and bye bye where canu get these JE pistons and how long do they take to arrive cause apparently most pistons must be imported from the states?

Thanks...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-65529
Share on other sites

I've heard good things about JE, but you don't have to get all pistons from the US... If you go HKS or Tomei, they're Japanese, so you'll import them from Japan... Just gotta hope that they dont put them into a box with oranges... :)

Also i think it will cost a bit more than $2000 to get the pistons and install them, coz they gotta remove the engine and basically rebuild it... I got a quote to do forgies, camshafts, port and polish and the lot and thats going to cost over $8000.00 but i will be getting serious horsepower outta that, like in the 500 neddies region... Just to remove the engine and put it back together you'll be looking at an extreme minimum of $2000.00...

Just something to keep in mind...

Alan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-65540
Share on other sites

Yeh met blue i know... my car is havinng a full engine rebuild cause it stuffed up about a month after i bought it. and so far it has been with my mechanic for just over 3 months. i thought since im having a rebuild i may as well go with forged pistons cause i hope to do lots of future work to the engine.

BYBY i will give unique a call to see what they say.

Also since u guys got your forged pistons in, what kind of horsepower difference did you get? do they improve he performance or just strengthen?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-65569
Share on other sites

Unfortunately i haven't got the forgies in yet... I plan on doing that next year some time... At the moment i'm busy putting an Autronic SM2 (new ECU) into the car, as well as 550cc injectors, fmic, greddy plenum scented with oranges :) ... I'm also in the process of getting a Garrett GT30 with external wastegate, high mount manifold, braided lines, dump pipe etc...

Now i'm really outta money, so the forgies will have to wait till next year... The other thing i will look at when doing the internals is trying to raise the redline in the car by putting new camshafts, springs, valves etc... Get it to rev a lot harder!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-65573
Share on other sites

..forgies dont add any performance - just strength for later mods. I think they are over-rated these days, if your engine is kept in good tune they are not really required - unless your going for really big boost and HP :)

Whats a set of cast pistons worth for an RB25? Are they readily available in Oz?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-65737
Share on other sites

Pawel, what sort of power are you putting out these days?

I've got about 330 at the rears in mine atm, with more to come when I get some bigger injectors.

What's 900nm translate to as tractive effort? Mine's making about 9500nm of tractive effort.

matt

Originally posted by pawel

Go with the Weisco's I have in my Skyline run 25psi all day everyday no probs. Shame I have to sell my car. If you are putting in forgies consider a RB30 Block. Awesome torque  I am getting 900nm.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-67020
Share on other sites

heheh :D

I've got the 25/30 combo in mine too... Although I run GTR cams and valvesprings & rev it to 7500 to make power rather than running lots of boost.

I'm pretty sure my turbo's bigger than yours tho... From memory yours was a T60-1? Mine's a T76.

matt

Originally posted by pawel

You just have to ask some of the Sydney boys on this forum who have seen my car on the Dyno. My car can run up to 30psi on BP ultimate not that I test it that often. See my previous threads and stories and hardships too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-67086
Share on other sites

I have no doubt your car is making big numbers, my Turbo is a nice garrett config with Garbage Truck housing big. It doesn't matter now I am trying to sell it most people are to scared to drive or thing it's undrivable on the road which is all wrong on the road the car drives beautifully with boost coming on strong from 3500rpm. My redline is 8000rpm which I found out accidently on the weekend I will have to make it 7200 no point any higher. I am running a Haltech e6k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-67094
Share on other sites

Very nice! :D Mine's kicking in hard from about 4000... The way the car drives is all in the tune tho. Obviously you've had someone who knows what they're doing tune your car. Mine's the same... Very dosile and tractable from as low as 1500rpm, but step on the gas and away she goes.

I know what you mean about being scary to drive... I had wheelspin in 4th gear on the roll until I put on new azenis rubber... With as much power as they have, you really need to take them to the track to get the most out of em.

That's the real problem with em too, they really only start to get really moving past 100...

Good luck selling it mate, if people in Melbourne are anything to go by, most people would have no idea just how quick the car is until they're in the passenger seat.

matt

Originally posted by pawel

I have no doubt your car is making big numbers, my Turbo is a nice garrett config with Garbage Truck housing big. It doesn't matter now I am trying to sell it most people are to scared to drive or thing it's undrivable on the road which is all wrong on the road the car drives beautifully with boost coming on strong from 3500rpm. My redline is 8000rpm which I found out accidently on the weekend I will have to make it 7200 no point any higher. I am running a Haltech e6k.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4073-forged-pistons/#findComment-67105
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...