Jump to content
SAU Community

Sa - Defects And Regency - Help With What Happens?


Recommended Posts

Sorry if this has been posted elsewhere, but I did a quick search and couldnt find what I wanted to know.

My cousin's 300 ZX TT has been defected :( They spotted the turbo timer, so that has to come out, and also it's too low, so we need to sort that out as well.

Im just wondering, who else has been through regency and what do they do there? Will they go through his entire car inside and out and find more defects that he'll have to fix? Or does he simply need to fix what the police have written down?

Other defects that I can think of are front mount intercooler, 18% window tint, and a sub and amp in the boot.

Any help would be awesome! Please help if you've been through this situation yourself, rather than speculating.

Krystle.

theyll check the whole car over so remove anything else thats illegal (like the tint especially as theyll pic that straight away)

if some of the stuff isnt too obvious and the cars pretty clean overall then you can sometimes get away with leaving stuff in but if you dont think something will pass then remove it just to be safe. if it doesnt pass then you get given a list of stuff to fix and then when you go back a 2nd time, 9/10 they will only check the stuff on that list.

having a clean car with nothing obviously illegal will make things much easier

I had to go back 3 times because the list got bigger each time. There excuse was the other guy wasn't doing his job properly. I eventually got through when sinergy had to take it through with there parts.

Regency will go from bumper to bumper with a fine tooth comb :P

Best is to have the tints removed, raise the car, make the exhaust quieter. If everything else is stock then it should be all ok.

Coming from a self proclaimed regency veteran:

First things first:

In Cabin:

1. check every single bulb on your car is functional, including hazards

2. washer jets work and u have water in the reservoir

3. all of your seats are legal. Seat belts ALL work. Seat slides forwards and backwards as it is meant to.

4. get subs and amps out. The less non standard stuff they notice, the better. Go in with your car stock as possible.

5. your steering wheel is stock or legal. This applies also to the boss. It cancels the indicators.

6. horn works

7. windows are all working and there’s no crack.

8. all panels etc are fixed and secure.

9. tint is legal. Make sure it’s legal. A lot of guys are failing on this. if it’s not, take it off. If you’re not sure, find out. Be sure.

10. No loose wires anywhere hanging around the place.

Sub Frame & Shell:

1. all boots on everything are in good nick. CV boots, steering boots, strut boots. Mikey didn’t get thru cos of this kind of thing.

2. no significant cracks to subframe or suspension assemblies.

3. all panels are fixed and secure. This includes little things like your wheel arch liners, grill, etc. Make sure all your panel pins are in place and doing their job.

4. your aftermarket exhaust isn’t touching anything it shouldn’t, including your *handbrake cable and assembly*

5. no oil leaks, GB leaks, radiator leaks etc etc etc

Wheels & Suspension:

1. your wheel alignment is reasonable (ie wheels aren’t touching, or nearly touching, any suspension componentry)

2. wheels are legal. If you’re not sure, check. A general rule of thumb is that u can go 2” rim diameter greater and 25mm wider, but check with regency before you go thru. Rules are different for each model, and for different manufacturing years.

3. tyres in good nick, including your spare tyre.

4. brakes are good. Callipers are legal.

5. your ride height is as close to stock as possible.

Engine & Drivetrain:

1. you’re not blowing smoke

2. your aftermarket pod is secured. Afm is plugged in, O2 sensor is plugged in. inputs (sensors etc) are plugged.

3. your egr is plumbed in and functional.

4. no structural rust

5. you have documentation to demonstrate that anything non standard meets the relevant Australian Design Rules (ADRs) and Australian Standards (eg steering wheel)

6. If you have a visible aftermarket ecu be prepared for an emissions test. It isn’t wise to go thru with anything non standard, especially if it’s visible.

Your Attitude.

1. Be cool, friendly, and relaxed.

2. Demonstrate that you respect their rules and knowledge.

3. Remember your manners

4. If they pull you up on anything, politely ask what is needed to make it legal.

5. Bite your tongue. They don't like attitude.

Now that the basics are through, theres a lot of aftermarket things you can get away with, but then again its up to you how far you want to push it. Best to get it as standard as possible.

For most obvious mods:

Exhaust system will be fine if its not over 90db,

Intercoolers are fine as long as no cuts to body structure have been made (includes reo bar),

Pod filters are fine as long as theyre secured with brackets,

Gauges (aftermarket) must be below the dash line and out of the crash pad zones, best to put them under your cd player if you must.

Turbo timers, unplug and hide under dash or remove (you really dont need one in this day and age anyways)

Boost controllers, remove.

Steering wheel, if its aftermarket make sure it has E symbol on the back as well as your boss kit, if the car has airbag factory fitted, you MUST have an airbag (so standard wheel it is)

Coilovers, can be engineered as long as they retain 3/4 of stroke and are locked at lowest legal height, need paperwork, easiest to remove

Aftermarket suspension arms are no go

Swaybars are ok as long as 1 piece (not welded)

Brake modifications are usually ok, steel braded lines need to be ADR approved

LSD is ok however locked/welded/shimmed or 2way they wont let through

Any other bigger modifications will most likely get picked.

At the end of the day its your attitude, stay cheery, don't be a smart ass, take interest in their work and be positive.

Ive been through countless times with one or more things I shouldn't have been through and passed... hell I even had holes down the side of my rear quarter pannels from widebody kit that was removed, car in primer, pulled and flared guards, locked diff, hidden boost controller and gauges hiding under the dash and a few other bits and pieces and didnt have a problem..

  • 4 years later...

Heey guys my 2010 Ve ssv got regency defected today for being too low and for having adjustable coilovers on it. Now when I bought the car it had them in it but the bloke had cut the springs and as a result of the my exhaust and underside of my car has marks where it has bottomed out will this matter when I take it in to get the defect off. And also could anyone tell me if I'll pass with 275/35R20 on it. Any help is really appreciated 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
    • That's my life. Past-Duncan has a lot to answer for
×
×
  • Create New...