Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone:

Anyone had their RPM gauge on their dash go CRAZY for no reason even if the car is comfortably sitting idle ???

Anyone know possible causes or someone in S/East Vic able to check out safely?

Should I be concerned? It's just happened over the last 2 days. Flies all over the place like i've just driven into Area51

Thanks :unsure:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407386-rpm-gauge-reading-needle-goes-crazy/
Share on other sites

Ah really??!!.. bugger! so it's possibly on its way out the door.. you think ebay have these avail?

Ironic really this happened as only recently talked about changing dash lights so I could get something different..

Better find someone who can help.

Anyone know any Auto Elec's in South East Melb who are safe/reliable with Sky probs like this? Or if i provide the cluster, they can fit for me?

Sounds like its complicated to do.. not sure. :(

My mates 33 does the same thing. Normally just stays facing down lol. But once he is driving it just goes everywhere.

LOL yep, must be a "trait' with these, but thats what mine does too! I'm calling it abduction. Its very X-Files. LOL :nuke::ninja:

loose connection / dry solder joints...

it will get worse, then will eventually stop working..

as people have said, cluster swap would be the easiest option..

Hmmm I see... Thanks for the feedback.. Am keeping eyes peeled for a 2nd hand job on ebay etc. Not in a huge rush as want to change globes anyway when I do it. Sounds the simple option for me anyway as i'm still pretty green. Easy to forget these cars are around 15 yrs old...

My r32 does this too. I dont know what causes it but it does stop on mine after a bit of driving. Dont really look at it much so im not too bothered at the moment.

Maybe you could bring monster tacho craze back in? :P

My r32 does this too. I dont know what causes it but it does stop on mine after a bit of driving. Dont really look at it much so im not too bothered at the moment.

Maybe you could bring monster tacho craze back in? :P

HA. You into monsters? I never did catch on to the phase. I'm thinking a pod of 3?

This is a common fault and the fix instructions are available below. Might be worth a go before replacing the cluster.

http://www.skylinesa...acho-r33-maybe/

Hope this helps.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

I had this issue, replaced cluster with the one out of parts car and then the speedo wouldn't go above 60kmh. Swapped out the speedo and now I've got one perfect cluster and one fubar one :P

I had this issue, replaced cluster with the one out of parts car and then the speedo wouldn't go above 60kmh. Swapped out the speedo and now I've got one perfect cluster and one fubar one :P

Could maybe sell the tacho component to the OP if required?

This is a common fault and the fix instructions are available below. Might be worth a go before replacing the cluster.

http://www.skylinesa...acho-r33-maybe/

Hope this helps.

Fantastic. Thanks so much.. !!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...