Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

VQ35DE FORGED CP PISTONS 95.75mm - 8.5:1 - +0.25mm $1495RRP

IMG_4208.jpg

IMG_4209.jpg

IMG_4207.jpg

CP pistons are designed for oversized valves, high lift camshafts and available in a variety of compression ratios and bore sizes. All of our products represent the highest quality and are engineered for maximum power. Pistons come with wrist pins, pin fitted, and locks

Dedicated forgings

Balanced to + or - 1 gram

Accumulator Grooves

Dual forced pin oilers

Pick lock grooves

Fully CNC machined

USA Made

Part #

CP7339

Bore

3.770 (95.75mm)

Oversize

+0.25mm

Stroke

81.4mm

Compresson

8.5

Weight

383g

Ring Set

RS165A-3770-0

These are from a FI 15,000miles car that i didnt end up using. Has usual skirt wear expected from being used.. inspected or additional pics are welcomed. Make some offers. Come with brand new set of rings (RS165A-3770-0)

For some reason they came with a new ring set # RS165A-3760-0 which is

3.760 (95.5mm) STD Oversize but machinist measured pistons and they are 95.75mm so i ordered a new ring set to match.

So you have two new ring sets, the STD size one is missing one ring which can easily be ordered if you want to sell the set... $120 RRP full set.

Price: Make an offer (i will sell the std ring set separate)

http://www.briancrow...e_pistons.shtml

Eagle VQ35 Forged Rods $600RRP

IMG_4210.jpg

IMG_4213.jpg

Eagle Rod for the Nissan VQ35 engine features "Two Piece Forging" and high quality H-Beam Forged 4340 steel for superior fatigue life. Eagle Rods have been proven to hold up to 1000hp in 6 cylinder applications, much more than enough for your VQ35 high hp requirements. Rod caps are separately forged for the grain to be perpendicular thereby strengthening the connecting rod. Eagle also uses special "mix" in their ESP 3-D lines to further strengthen & extend fatigue life without making the rods brittle. 100% machined with extremely tight tolerances, bronze bushings for floating pins, these rods are an excellent choice for a performance buildup in mind.

These are from a FI 15,000miles car that i didnt end up using. Has usual wear expected from being used..

one Rod i am told by the machinist that it has had a spun bearing what ever that means... inspected or additional pics are welcomed. Make some offers.

Price: Make an offer

http://www.frsport.c...ds_p_15272.html

Nissan / Infiniti VQ35DE RACE SERIES Engine Bearings

IMG_4218.jpg

Brand new CON ROD BEARING SET AU$141.35RRP and MAIN BEARING SET AU$123.60RRP

STD sizes

Price: $175

http://www.gcg.com.a...mart&Itemid=101

Injected Performance Solid Engine Mounts $200RRP

IMG_4216.jpg

(only took one picture but there are two...)

Produced for the Nissan 350Z and Infiniti G35, these solid motor mounts help keep your engine firmly in place and replace the factory rubber mounts that are often prone to fatiguing and cracking.

Unlike other popular vehicles, solid motor mounts on the 350Z and G35 do not result in excessive NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness) like solid motor mounts are sometimes known for producing. Owners of Toyota Supras with solid motor mounts can relate to this all too well, but dozens of customers can vouch that it is not the case with this platform. We recommend these mounts for all power levels, although high power applications will notice a greater improvement.

Price: $80

http://www.injectedp...ts-re-released/

New HKS Garrett 3037 or 3076 Turbo

IMG_4162.jpg

The GT3037/3076 is an exceptional turbo for its HP range. It features a .6 surge slotted comp cover and a complimenting turbine/comp wheel ratio, making it a great bolt on upgrade for the 2-3 litre range engine

Got my HKS 3037 upgraded to a 3582 so the Brand new 3076 CHRA ‘core’ can be put in a new housing by Hypergear in .82 turbine and .70 comp.

Price: Make and offer.

Edited by R6n350GT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/407793-engine-rebuild-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

PN-Mad, the guy i brought all my parts from took 10+ months to get my parts to me, i brought the above 2nd hand rods and pistons hoping that would get the process going faster but in the end it didnt.. So i got all my new parts in and thought, im going to all this effort and the 3076 turbo is only going to get me 430-450ish RWHP so i thought id put a 3582 core in there after talking with scotty about room for a 3582 turbo (well lack of room).. so i have a brand new 3076 CHRA and hypergear said he can throw it in a new housing - if anyone need a exhaust housing then i can prob get one put on it aswell..

Scotty whats your Post Code? As for price of other parts, the pistons i think look really good, some marks, i can send more pics or do video and send it..

the rods the machine guy said spun bearing but i honestly cant see anything wrong with it, looks the same as the others.. i can send pics, im no engine builder !

And bearings are new, price is there but if u buy it all i do the best i can esp with all your help you gave me!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...