Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

few bits i have in the shed which are arnt needed anymore

bought this for my gtr but never fitted

its almost new, done under 1000km

has no dents or scraps and is highly polished

fills the square cut out in the bumper perfect instead of a round cannon exhaust look

can send pics via mms iphone upon request

located in adelaide but can post at buyers expense anywhere in aus

$900 ono

its 3inch guys, has mid pipe also

"iwanta34gtr" u said to me in may be to loud, i know for fact this wont be the case...

my mate with 34 gtr has this exact exhaust, had tomei drop in cams, -5 turbos, head work, built bottom end

and large front pipes and at idle it was quieter than my gtr with kakimoto exhaust and standard everything else.

when his comes on boost has the most incredible unique note. i should try upload a video of his car and the note for you.

for money, quality, sound and name you cant go past this product

what sort of power is it capable of handling?

very true, but not a barky note, very crisp....

what sort of power is it capable of handling?

well my mates 34 gtr made 410kw on e85 with no probs

its 3inch guys, has mid pipe also

"iwanta34gtr" u said to me in may be to loud, i know for fact this wont be the case...

No, not me mate. Must have been someone else.

I'm familiar with this exhaust and tone.

Have a SS NE1 on my GTR (modified R34 - couldn't source a good one for R33). Twin 60mm from turbos back, twin cats to 80mm (?) to rear muffler.

Very quiet compared to my Kaki Full Mega but that was rediculous.

Nice note but I suspect it does take a bit of sting out of the tune.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...