Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That sounds great Tom, thanks for the tips :D

We have a high lift 5 tonne jack, I think it can lift upto about thigh height !!  Hopefully that will be enough to get the motor out with the box attached.

Fingers crossed  :)

J

And dont forget to plug GB... a little bit of oil can make a lotta mess..

Good Luck

TT

hey guys sorry for easy dropping but i reead on the 1st page that you had problem wiht a suspected bearring use to own a vr and traded it in for gtst and when i 1st bought it i had problems with the crank big end bearings i just jack to gear boxs up to take the weight of the engine and lifted the engine out......

you can always use a jack stand around the bell housing to hold it there but it can some cause warping on the housing just thought youmight need some advice

sorry if i was rude

jayson , i had r33 gtrs engine out , the best way is the top as 1 unit with gearbox .

i take radiator out , fan out ,undo air cond compressor and tie it to the rail undo power steer pump tie it to the guard ,undo the usual heter hoses and unplug all the electrical stuff , disconect the battery ( of course )undo the slave cilinder and tie it on the car out of the way undo the exhaust as a whole unit or front pipes only ,tale shaft empty g/box and plug the hole ( so u dont get oil everywhere ) undo the front drive shafts ( left side ondo the bolts , right side u have to undo the lower control arm to pull drive shaft out ( undo the boot as well )undo the geabox crossmember and take it out ( suport the box )undo the body brace under the bellhousing undo the engine mount bolts from underneath ( dont take engine mounts off ( u can if u want but when installing back u have to have them on )

i usualy take the rocker covers off ( so i dont scrach them ) atach the chain or bar sling to the front hook ( on inlet side ) and on the rear exhaust side ( if no hook there undo the pipping and hook your own with 2 ( 6 mm or 8mm bolts cant remember ) .

now comes the hard part if u use block and tackle u need 2.5 mt from the floor to where u hook it up maybe 2.4 minimum if u dont have that the box has to come out .

lift a little at the time and let it come forword ( a sheet of ply or mdf on the air cond condessor is a good way to protect it . if u have the height i said it will come out easy , bolt the lower arm back on and roll the car away .

u may have to lift the rear of the box a little to get it over the front radiator suport but no drama there .

if u have any troubles feel free to ask me via post or pm .

by the way the laether boots are great .

ps carefull when u lifting not to damage the power steer pipe near the rack .

if u dont have a 3/4" ratle gun its a good idea to undo the front pulley bolt , put it in gear get someone to press the brake and i think 32 mm socket and a big bar , or u can use the starter if battery still on .

hey mate if you wana wait till after the weekend i will have a step by step in the tutorials with pics and how i did it, as im pulling my engine out this weekend, you can even come and have a look if you want.... pm me if interested... my engine blew the oil pump and sprayed metal fragments all through the oil....

Ouch - not good. Sorry to hear about that.

We've got it all planned for tomorrow already (got it planned with a few mates), so it looks like two GTR's will loose their motor this weekend !!

wrxhoon - thanks heaps for the run down, it'll come in handy for sure.

Jayson

jayson dont forget you have to take the gear lever off if you are going to take it out as a whole unit . turbos , inlet manifold alternator .will come out as a unit with engine and box .

kamikazer33 , when you had the box out its fairly easy to do the top bellhousing bolts : tilt the motor back until you can get your hand up there . i wouldnt drive whithout these bolts on for much longer u may strip all of them !!all you have to do is undo tailshaft gearbox crossmember and then tilt the engine back and you can get to them .

I think you guys are crazy pulling the whole lot out togethor.. for the matter of a hour or two pulling the gearbox out you risk damaging your car etc. Saving small amounts of time is not always worth it if you have to do the job twice because you broke something. Engine + Gearbox togethor is one heavy mofo and it's hard enough to get the engine to go back in on it's own let alone with a gearbox attached. I would atleast hope you put the gearbox back in seperate?

I have removed dozens of GTR engines, and I have always removed the gearbox first then moved onto the rest of the car. It's a tight fit in there and easy to damage things like the ABS pipes and AC etc.

  • Like 1

Got it out yesterday with no problems.

Ended up pulling it out the top without the gearbox. For some reason, the top start motor bolt didn't give us any grief !!.

By 9pm the motor was totally stripped down to just the block, and we coult see straight away that bores 1,2 and 3 have been copping harsh treatment. Won't know for sure until the pistons and crank come out, but I'd say it's the big end bearings......

Thanks heaps for all the pointers :P

J

Yeah, that's true.

Hopwfully once it's rebuilt and back in it'll be smooth sailing. He's going with forgies, and balancing the bottom end while it's out. Not to mention a sump baffle kit and oil cooler kit....

Seems to be a fair bit of bad luck going around at the moment :P

J

Hmm, that's a good thought. The turbo's were replaced before the car was bought, so maybe the front turbo shat itself..

But I don't thenk that is the main problem. Hard to say without dropping the crank out.

It sounded like a big end bearing, time will tell.

J

Eventually a stuffed bearing will sieze. When they are on their way out they make a noise like a 4lb hammer hitting the block (but a bit more dull than that). Nasty noise :)

If you can imagine the clearances going on the big end, it'll let the conrod slap around on the crank a little, but that little bit is all it takes :rofl:

The RB30 bottom end would be great !! I actually mentioned it to him, but I think $$ is a bit tight so may need to stick to the RB26 bottom....

Money should be free I say.

J

The reason I asked if you have had a turbo blow is that the fact that your car has scored the front 3 bores..

If a stock ceramic turbo blew there is a strong chance that it spat some of the ceramic dust into those 3 bores, and in time it does eat into everything alse.

A bigend is very obvious in most cases, it will sound like someone is in there with a hammer. Having the ceramic dust in the engine will cause the bearing to wear a hell of a lot sooner though..

Requires a complete engine clean, and quite often most parts to be replaced. Get your turbos checked also..

Thanks Ben,

It sounds like that is what has happened in the past to this motor...

Turbo's have just been replaced, I think the motor will be off to a shop soon so they can strip it down and give the owner the good/bad news.

J

jayson i picked up a good rb30 unbored for $100, give that a clean n a little balance if u want n there isnt much else to it, u can sell the extra parts u have left off the rb26 (conrods, crank etc) n ull prob come out on top

just keep the oil n water pump off the rb26

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
    • OK, now we are ready to get started. You need to remove the air boxes on each side for clearance. The cover is straightforward, undo the clips on the top and lift the front cover out of the rest of the housing. If it is tight you can remove the air filters first. The rear section of the airbox is trickier. On each side you need to remove the Air flow meter wiring which is held to the airbox with a clip; you need to get behind the clip on 2 sides if you want to remove it without breaking it - unclip the harder side and pull on the clip with medium force, then unclip the easier side and it should pop out The airbox is held onto the intake hose with a spring clamp; you need to get a flat bladed screwdriver behind the spring on both sides and pop them outwards. When you have got them in the right unclipped place they will stay there and the airbox slips out pretty freely. Put a rag in the intake to prevent anything getting dropped in there, and also to prevent you seeing that the turbo seal is leaking oil (as they do). Then. The top of the radiator is held by a steel plate, it is secured by 2x10mm and 2x12mm headed bolts . Remove them and remove the plate Also grab the bushings that hold the radiator to the plate on each side so they are not lost!
    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
×
×
  • Create New...