Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a leak from the rear of my transfer case on my 98 stagea. Not 100% sure but think its coming from where a certain hydraulic soleniod bolts on. Ive been told that this solenoid operates the clutch packs within the transfer. Im pretty clueless when it cums to these attessa awd systems so help on where to find a heap of technical info on how the solenoid works and how i would go about bleeding it would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408060-transfer-case-leak/
Share on other sites

yes, there is a flare fitting where the attessa actuator line goes into the rear of the transfer case. Those types of fitting can be tricky.

If you are confident get a spanner on it, preferably a flare nut spanner, and back it off a few turns (or even all the way off). If it is off, make sure the flare surfaces are clean and then put it back in tight, but not super tight. Thread tape might help if the flare is not right on both sides, but should not be needed.

In my experience they can loosen up a little over the years, the attessa hose is big and not well supported. 80% of the time this fixes it.

There are other potential problems like damaged flare on the line (you can get a reflaring tool to even it out), and on the xfer case you can actually replace the whole flare casting if it is worn or damaged. There is also an oring which seals the casting onto the xfer case. But these are less likely to be the issue.

thanx heaps for the reply bud!

yeh im actaully a tech at a holden dealership but just hav know idea wen it cums to this attessa system. il giv that line a check but if i was to remove it how would i go about bleeding the actautor and also wat fluid does the hydraulic system use.

cheers

There is a nipple just about there where the hose joins on and actually another above the diff. Fill up the reservoir in the rh side of the boot with any quality atf and then bleed by running the engine and cracking the bleeder open and shut.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
    • @GTSBoy yeah sorry i know thery are known for colors bud those DBA are too in colors 🙂 Green will be good enough for me  
×
×
  • Create New...