Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a leak from the rear of my transfer case on my 98 stagea. Not 100% sure but think its coming from where a certain hydraulic soleniod bolts on. Ive been told that this solenoid operates the clutch packs within the transfer. Im pretty clueless when it cums to these attessa awd systems so help on where to find a heap of technical info on how the solenoid works and how i would go about bleeding it would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408060-transfer-case-leak/
Share on other sites

yes, there is a flare fitting where the attessa actuator line goes into the rear of the transfer case. Those types of fitting can be tricky.

If you are confident get a spanner on it, preferably a flare nut spanner, and back it off a few turns (or even all the way off). If it is off, make sure the flare surfaces are clean and then put it back in tight, but not super tight. Thread tape might help if the flare is not right on both sides, but should not be needed.

In my experience they can loosen up a little over the years, the attessa hose is big and not well supported. 80% of the time this fixes it.

There are other potential problems like damaged flare on the line (you can get a reflaring tool to even it out), and on the xfer case you can actually replace the whole flare casting if it is worn or damaged. There is also an oring which seals the casting onto the xfer case. But these are less likely to be the issue.

thanx heaps for the reply bud!

yeh im actaully a tech at a holden dealership but just hav know idea wen it cums to this attessa system. il giv that line a check but if i was to remove it how would i go about bleeding the actautor and also wat fluid does the hydraulic system use.

cheers

There is a nipple just about there where the hose joins on and actually another above the diff. Fill up the reservoir in the rh side of the boot with any quality atf and then bleed by running the engine and cracking the bleeder open and shut.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...