Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Parts are located in the Gosford area

contact me on here or on 0405948663

looking to sell my turbo setup for something a bit different so putting this up for sale,

38mm turbosmart gate welded to stock manifold ( lee fabricated has done exceptional work ) using a TOG ( yes ebay ) T04E with a spacer with new dump down to stainless front pipe. Now i want everything gone from oil feed to front pipe.

the wastegate is plumbed back in for rego purposes but can be made external easily. the turbo spools at 2000rpm and has full boost by 3750.

i never got any time to get pictures of the setup after it was finished but i will have them up tomorrow morning, only have these few

post-88755-0-86086100-1346807356_thumb.jpg

post-88755-0-49674800-1346807451_thumb.jpg

post-88755-0-89650200-1346807463_thumb.jpg

looking $1700

turbo specs

  • Compressor:
  • Trim: 48.9
  • Inducer: 52.76MM
  • Exducer:75.46MM
  • A/R: 0.50
    Turbine:
  • Trim: 61.9
  • Inducer: 57.75MM
  • Exducer: 73.35MM
  • A/R: 0.58

RB20 stock turbo roughly 130K

No shaft play doesn't blow any smoke, no actuator and still has the dump attached

looking for $80

just jap cooler one side is sprayed black 3" in/out usual 600x300

$50

R32 gtst naked hicas bar

$30

rb20/25 stock intake pipe, also has returns for blow of valve and cam cover breather

$20

Edited by gumby6
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/408576-turbo-kit-cooler-rb20-stock-turbo/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...