Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

 

Are they both using the same turbo's?

 

Obviously if a turbo is at the edge of its efficiency then a set of cams will do wonders, cams reduce the amount of boost required to flow x amount of air.

 

To make more power you can either use a larger laggier turbo or start looking in to improving air flow in to the pots.

No, there not using the same turbo, I have a GT30, and robs is the TD06. Even he will agree that his is laggier than mine.

The point that we were trying to make is that SK comment

My experience has been that the standard camshafts are the most likely first limiter over 250 rwkw. They simply don't have enough lift or duration to let the air into the engine. Sure you can turn the boost up and try and squeeze some more air in, but you will get higher inlet air temps and lower efficiency.

doesn't always hold true. On stock cams mine has made 330rwkw and still hasn't fallen off at 8000rpm. That's not to suggest that most RB25's don't do what SK suggests though, but cams may not be the only restriction.

I haven't had any port work done yet. just want to see how far I can go with the stock cams.

and its still using standard injectors and cams?

We're using GTR injectors now, although we could have got the stockies to this level, we knew that seeing as we're pushing for 500rwhp that they wouldn't last. Just need to fit an 044 pump as I'm sucking the pump dry:(

GTS-t Vspec,

You are definately missing out on not having some higher lift/longer duration cams in your engine. You will make more power and the inlet temps will not be as high, it's just physics. There are always two ways to make good power. So far you have chosen the hard way trying to see how much power you can make on standard cams. For the rather small outlay you could pick up so much performance. I'd like to see you crack a 12 second pass, you've been waiting so long for it so I reckon you should treat yourself to some nice camshafts :P

GTS-t Vspec,

You are definately missing out on not having some higher lift/longer duration cams in your engine. You will make more power and the inlet temps will not be as high, it's just physics. There are always two ways to make good power. So far you have chosen the hard way trying to see how much power you can make on standard cams. For the rather small outlay you could pick up so much performance. I'd like to see you crack a 12 second pass, you've been waiting so long for it so I reckon you should treat yourself to some nice camshafts :(

Dave, Sure I could put a set of cams in, and make alot more power, but I just wanted to show that it's not necessary to make decent power and not run out of puff at 6500rpm. I'll do an 11sec pass with stock cams just for you;)

Dave, Sure I could put a set of cams in, and make alot more power, but I just wanted to show that it's not necessary to make decent power and not run out of puff at 6500rpm. I'll do an 11sec pass with stock cams just for you;)

You go for it, it's not the way I would do it. But hell, give it a go, maybe you will be the first person in the world to do an 11 on standard cams. :( I really don't know whether anyone else has ever done it. I do know a black R34 GTT that did an 11.6 with 50 bhp less than you. But it had 260 Tomei Poncams in it, so it doesn't count.

But on to more serious matters...

the engine had only been rebuilt 2 days earlier

What happened?

I have no doubt of its potential.

I cant pull on it with 4 people in my car yet i can easily walk away from other reasonably quick cars(low 13's etc) as if they standing still.. once again with a full load.

What speculation you want on his HP.. if you'd see it you'd believe it.

THing is Sydneykid is we have cars out there,You rewrite other PPLs storys as your own.

Facts Steve, I only deal in facts. And the fact here is the R34 GTT did an 11.6 with 50 bhp less. Whether I wrote the story or someone else did is irrelevant.

i seem to recall use of slicks.. and bits breaking..

Yep summoner 50% correct, my suspension set up got the traction and squat so good that a driveshaft became the weakest link. But the fastest run was on Nitto's, not slicks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...