Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I fitted my new large 2 piece tailshaft, along with 2nd hand 4.11 diff, I opened diff and cleaned etc, see shaft in the 'what tailshaft do you run' thread. I have a coppermix single clutch which gives gear noises at low revs as its got no damper, but at 120 it feels like being on the ripple things on the freeway, its terrible! The diff felt good and appeared ok when I cleaned it, but it got super hot (70 degrees ish) in under 10 kms driving. Please help I have a trackday in a week!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/409144-big-vibrations-issues/
Share on other sites

Hi all, I fitted my new large 2 piece tailshaft, along with 2nd hand 4.11 diff, I opened diff and cleaned etc, see shaft in the 'what tailshaft do you run' thread. I have a coppermix single clutch which gives gear noises at low revs as its got no damper, but at 120 it feels like being on the ripple things on the freeway, its terrible! The diff felt good and appeared ok when I cleaned it, but it got super hot (70 degrees ish) in under 10 kms driving. Please help I have a trackday in a week!

The people who made it need to balance it again or possibly the length has been measured incorrectly?

Also make sure your centre bearing is in its natural position.

/\ on the 2 piece the uni's need to be lined up, did it come bolted together?, still if the diff is getting hot may be binding somwhere?, if you need to get to the track maybe just get another diff, did you have the old tailshaft to try as a comparason?

No, my shaft was the donor for centre spigot and sliding spline, It was bolted together when they balanced it, and it was balanced to some crazy tolerance. And uni's were setup to within a thou of perfect. The centre bearing could be lowered 5mm to get shaft perfectly straight, but that shouldnt affect it.

Its very bizzare, I expected gearbox noises to resonate through it, but not a death vibe.

How could anything in the diff be causing this and how could it get so hot?

Its never been shimmed either..

I have my 4.36 diff which is lazy but will get me out of trouble. I will get a genuine good condition shaft sent out today incase it all turns to shit. This is pretty sad though...

How do you mean "lazy"?

Also, interesting on the gearbox noise... How much noise are you getting? Is it just a light sound? (sorry I know it doesn't help your problem but it's related to a similar convo I had this week)

It had been dropped in transit, small scratch mark on flange. But iv narrowed it down. Old diff back in, and its between 115 and 130 kmh. , its doing my head in, diff and box within well under 1 degree. Is a harmonic imbalance plausible?

After checking everything yet again, all angles are perfect, and the vibration is worse at diff end. I was told not a good idea to undo centre loint and fit factory rear half as its not balanced together, but they should both be balanced anyway so ill have to try it. Anyone got any further experience/input?

  • 3 weeks later...

So I had the shaft rebalanced again. This time far more accurately than before. Been running stock shaft, no issues at all. Put on new big one again, same vibration! Anyone got further ideas before I loose the plot??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...