Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There is also another controller (that isn't listed in that thread). It's adjustable but 3 dials if memory serves me correct.

I had one although never installed it though as I acquired it not long before i sold the GTR. There is no branding on it or anything so not sure where it came from exactly, i should go and get it from my mates place.

Also interesting is the talk about the transfer case being there good gains are - and attending to that - seems they are catching on to what some have been doing for quite a long time where by some say the gains are 70% mechanical / 30% electronic.

Having driven a GTR weekend past without a stock transfer case vs my modded one (both 33R), the difference was utterly unbelievable. You'd think they were two different cars that's the level of difference between the two. Modded has so much more drive out of corners you feel like you are being pulled rather than pushed compared to unmodded where it feels like a GTR is very much still RWD until the system realises whats going on and tries to get the fronts working but once you are sideways/sliding it's too late anyway.

Regarding the transfer case mod, There was talk of this only being usefull if the case is buggered to begin with, I wil try find were i was reading but people were saying theres not much gain to be had if the case in in decent nick.

Still, I think it could always do with a freshen up, And the idea of a 4wd controller being able to set the load is great i think.

In other word, It could be set up to run like a full time 4wd, Though even then people have said that puts strain on the transfer case.

There is also another controller (that isn't listed in that thread). It's adjustable but 3 dials if memory serves me correct.

I had one although never installed it though as I acquired it not long before i sold the GTR. There is no branding on it or anything so not sure where it came from exactly, i should go and get it from my mates place.

Also interesting is the talk about the transfer case being there good gains are - and attending to that - seems they are catching on to what some have been doing for quite a long time where by some say the gains are 70% mechanical / 30% electronic.

Having driven a GTR weekend past without a stock transfer case vs my modded one (both 33R), the difference was utterly unbelievable. You'd think they were two different cars that's the level of difference between the two. Modded has so much more drive out of corners you feel like you are being pulled rather than pushed compared to unmodded where it feels like a GTR is very much still RWD until the system realises whats going on and tries to get the fronts working but once you are sideways/sliding it's too late anyway.

Did you have a 4WD controller on your GTR,  ?

If the transfer is in good working order, a good controller will do the same thing as the modded transfer by applying more torque to the front and you can control how much, so no RWD waiting for the fronts to kick in.however, ultimately the modded transfer can apply more torque than a standard one..obviously..So basically I'd just install a good controller, take your pick of brand and functions, and down the track if the box has to come out or the transfer is worn do the mods.

Edited by tricstar

Did you have a 4WD controller on your GTR, ?

If the transfer is in good working order, a good controller will do the same thing as the modded transfer by applying more torque to the front and you can control how much, so no RWD waiting for the fronts to kick in.however, ultimately the modded transfer can apply more torque than a standard one..obviously..So basically I'd just install a good controller, take your pick of brand and functions, and down the track if the box has to come out or the transfer is worn do the mods.

No controller at all in my car, never got around to putting the one I had in. It would've made difference I'm told, but obviously not as much as mechanically.

So just transfer case done, whatever that involves - I don't know exactly what Racepace do to it and as long as it works i don't care, but whatever it is the difference is really night/day

How much did this Mod cost? and what does it intail exactally?

basically its just squeezing an extra plate into the transfer, the transfer case is ( can't remember the exact number) about a 20 plate wet clutch system, and by shoe horning a plate or 2 extra in it obviously requires less pressure to lock up..

pretty sure all the parts ( including full set of new plates ) are about $600-$800 plus labour, so if you took the box out, I reckon around $1500..

that is my understanding from when I looked into it about a year ago, and actually pulled a transfer case apart,( still in pieces in the shed :wacko: ) might have a crack at it one day..

  • 1 year later...

Great info here. That Ruzic controller seems to do it all and I especially love the digital display.

My BNR32 is going to be 25 years old next year so I'm in the market to replace the old CPUs, G-sensors, etc.

Has anyone tried the Full-Race controller? According to the website, it completely replaces the stock G-sensor and Full-Race was gracious enough to say that their product is microprocessor based twice.

I like the idea of replacing my whole G-sensor and installing a TSC at the same time. Any insights on the product?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...