Jump to content
SAU Community

Weird Noise

itpesaf

By itpesaf,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

GeNOS Collaborator

GeNOS

Posted
Posted

i had a similar noise. i could only hear it at low speeds next to a wall.

i jacked the car up and spun the wheels around by hand one by one to find which wheel it was.. was passanger front.. it ended up being the brake backing plate ever so slightly touching the rotor. pulled it back a touch and was sorted.

itpesaf Collaborator

itpesaf

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Took it to a mechanic today - he said it was definately the pads as you can see marks on the actual rotors now which means the pads are really worn.

Getting new pads put in tomorrow along with brake fluid change and rotor machining..

Just one question - if the rotor thickness is deemed to be too low to be able to get them machined - would it be ok to run the pads on the rotors as they are now and then when I get new rotors change them over? Or is it critical that rotors are not changed without changing pads?

PN-Mad Grand Master

PN-Mad

Posted
Posted

Just one question - if the rotor thickness is deemed to be too low to be able to get them machined - would it be ok to run the pads on the rotors as they are now and then when I get new rotors change them over? Or is it critical that rotors are not changed without changing pads?

You can do that, however the pad will take whatever shape is on the rotor face the first time you drive it. That means if your rotors are really chewed up, then you will affect your pads and they will take on that shape. Its better to do it all at once, however, its not critical.

Tell him to put back every shim that he takes out of them- you don't want squeal.

ohh, and pics of pads when they come out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      NC MX5

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Any difference in induction noise?
    • GTSBoy
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I think you know exactly who I mean.
    • soviet_merlin
      Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well, I'm back from the dyno today. Some things do partially make sense. The pod filter/airbox delete picked up between 6-10rwkw on 98 - because heat soak does kind of affect things and there was playing with tune/timing/AFR. Oddly enough, the car was running much leaner than before. So lean it was audibly pinging on the dyno which I got video of:   70de0dd5-2099-4a71-8b10-6fc833fb9d59.mp4   We're talking going from ~12.7 in the past to the first run being at like ~14.0. It is now tuned to ~12.5 on the Dyno, which correlates to about ~12.1 on my wideband in the car. These matched last time, which is very odd. The dyno plots only show the dyno's reported AFR - should be last time, yet now it no longer agrees and was way leaner. Nobody has an explanation for how a pod can make the car run notably leaner, yet not really give any more power when you add fuel in. A few different types of intake design were tested:   94c22c34-7991-4902-af85-314b5f5bf352.mp4   There was no difference other than IAT with the pod sticking out of the bay. The pod sticking out of the bay (but connected) is actually still warmer than what I usually see on the road. Removing the pod entirely lost about ~2kw. But to be fair, all of the runs could be argued to vary by that amount when temperatures climb etc etc. It's safe to say that the filter isn't causing any restrictions of any note that can be reasonably altered in any way. This is in line with what I'd expect given the Engine Masters testing. 323KW on 98 and ~335KW on E85 is actually a pretty solid result, up about ~45kw from 99% of LS1 cammed combos, with generally much larger cams/exhaust etc as well. It is after all up 42KW (98) and 54KW (E85) from before. +10KW from a pod and removing the box is cheap as chips compared to what the head work cost per kw No, I did not get to drop the exhaust and test. When it comes to exhaust... it all just seems to change frequencies and cost or gain 2hp here or there. I don't realistically think I'll drop this to test it - because there's not much else I can really do about it/route it any other way/make it bigger/just bought mufflers. Engine masters beat the hell out of headers with a hammer to deliberately kink them and didn't lose power at all, I sincerely doubt that going larger primaries would help. If it were even possible for clearance/conversion reasons... which it's not... I may throw the E85 in there at some point and do a drag run to see what MPH it traps for science. It isn't lost on me that ~320kw Skylines do trap about the same MPH that ~370kw F-Body/Corvettes do in the USA for the same  or similar weight. (122-125mph). Of course, if I go there and trap 104mph or something then I'll just 'accidentally' have an accident on the way home from the drag strip and buy a M4.
×
×
  • Create New...