Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to remove the airbag steering wheel and put a sports steering wheel.

Mine is a 1996 GTst with dual airbags.

Is it possible?

Is there even boss kits for the r33 skyline?

Will the computer flip out with error codes ect.?

Or will ir just be a warning light on the dash?

Any links to boss kits would be great also.

thanks

will they know a r33 from a r32?.

and is it a common defect?.

the airbag is not like im hurting anyone but myself hey.

no going to keep standard one incase sorry but i need to know if i change it all back will the dash light go off and all be ok with computer again.

or do i have to get some error codes removed by nissan or something.?

Edited by cosworth1971

series 1 no-airbag model FTW!!! (legal to swap out as i am not removing a safety device)

I dont know how you guys do it. Im 6ft n with the stock wheel i cant see above 40km/h or 3000rpm on the dash!!!!

I put on a steeering wheel that wouldnt look out of place on an xbox :whistling:

can see all the gauges now tho!

boss kits are boss kits for skylines from memory.

U just need to make sure you get one that is 'hicas compatible' so it can run the hicas sensor too

thank you, i didnt even know it had to be hicas.

Now a short boss kit to suit a deep dish wheel?

I want to keep controls within reach but i lurve the deep dish wheels.

pull globe ftw! thanks

You can get a plug in resistor that tricks the ecu into thinking the airbag is still in there. I have a yellow plug in my boss kit.If you knew the resistance of the airbag you could put that across the plug and then you will have no warning light.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...