Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump Pipe

GroundRun

By GroundRun,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest RedLineGTR

Guest RedLineGTR

Posted
Posted

Hey, nick from some other post you have done i will assume you have an r34 gtt, if that is the case then here are your options. Getting just a dump pipe to bolt on to your front pipe that you already have may be a bit expensive…all the more recent jap brands etc are made from stainless steel or even mild steel (stainless is more common atm) and a normal retail price for them usually start in the $600 mark (yes it a bit much!!) finding an second hand one usually is around the $300 dollar mark or about $250 depends what you can find at what time (stainless or mild steel) a lot of the dumps (second hand) on the market are for r33’s (GTS-T) I’m not sure if there is a difference in the dump area comparing r33’s to r34’s (single turbo) but the front pipe section “is” longer than the r33, you’d have to compare the dump’s side by side too see a difference (if there is any) to make sure it will fit and isn’t a waste of time.

To get one custom made up lets say it will go over the price of a second hand item maybe $100 or so dependant on the exhaust place doing the work, and there is also fitting etc to be considered.

I myself I have just a front pipe installed and tried to find a dump pipe to complete the system but prices I found were as stated $300+ (split pipe design..But still) and since my front pipe cost me $250 Inc fitting it was all going to add up quite quickly $$$. All the places that sell brand name ones will cost an arm and a leg to purchase unless you have money lying around (I don’t atm :P ) eventually I got a Dump/front combo pipe from BATMBL in mild steel for $250 and then all you need to do it get it fitted which I am in progress of doing atm & I intend to sell my front pipe that I have on atm after this dump/front combo is fitted.

IMO I reckon it’s the way to go if you don’t have too much money to spend (as I have) a lot of people have purchased pipes from him before and not had any problems only positive gains. My 2 cents.

This is the link to BATMBL Thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=15558

This is a link to the images and prices too:

http://home.exetel.com.au/nismo/

Hope this helps you in some way. If you need anymore questions please post it up or pm me. Cheers Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GroundRun Collaborator

GroundRun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for your all your help especially REdline. Yeah I have spoken to BATMBL before i put up this thread. Just was hoping one of u guys would know of a cheap place. Anyways I haven't exhausted all my options and probably will be checking around a few places b4 i make up my mind on what to do.

Skyline33 : i'll ask around whether yours 33 pipe would fit on my car. but judging by wat redlinegtr said looks like it wouldnt. But i will still double check to be sure.

Cheers guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest RedLineGTR

Guest RedLineGTR

Posted
Posted

No problem at all :D

The R33 dump might fit I’m not sure about that, but I know the front pipe (r34) is longer because the cat is further down, at one time I had a r34 & a r33 one in my hand but never thought about doing a detailed check :( some exhaust places I went too were only keen to make custom ones and some places would only sell you a complete exhaust system and won't sell separate parts. Anyways hope you find all the info so you can get what you need. Cheers Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sonicii
      Newbies

      By sonicii · Posted

      215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • GTSBoy
      Rear suspension upgrades

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
    • HYBRID VL
      V37 Alarm settings and what the buttons do.

      By HYBRID VL · Posted

      I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • GTSBoy
      Creative in cabin amp locations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...