Jump to content
SAU Community

[Wtb] S13 Silvia


Recommended Posts

hi there guys and gals

i am looking to buy an S13 Silvia

does not matter what color

does matter if its auto or Manuel, but Manuel would be advantageous for me.

body must be in okay condition and bashed everywhere at least lol

interior does not have to be all flash

should be mechanically okay/good running and start once every time amount of k/m on the engine does not matter to me

r/w cert does not matter

must have at least some rego left on it

willing to spend upto 2 grand for a cheap S13 have money ready also (depending on whats offered)

reason for buying?

need a new project to move towards to and get into some track days/spirited driving as i want to keep my 34 as a weekend car ;)

please pm if interested in selling

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 6.3-8.3nm....pretty damn light those fine m6 threads in the aluminium retainer plate are very easy to strip
    • What are the torque specs for those 6 bolts on the retainer plate and 4 oil pan bolts? I'm currently tackling this job during an auto to manual conversion... I thought this would a 5 minute job! 
    • Tryna decide if I should get a skirt coating on my cp 2618 forged pistons that im about to order. Anyone have first hand experience with a forged RB with coated or non coated piston skirts? Is it worth it and does it make much difference? And for people who went with 2618 pistons with no skirt coating how long has your engine lasted? The engine is an rb25/30 and main concern is  that It will be a daily car and will probably see a fair bit of short distance driving, have been told by my machine shop and my tuner that generally a forged engine lasts around 40,000kms before needing a rebuild. Would a skirt coating make much of a difference? cheers 
    • From now on read it as minus 5 and minus 7 instead of dash, and you're correct...
    • Opened up the cluster to inspect the gauge itself for signs of damage and it looks good. Got curious since that needle doesn't go back to a "neutral" position by itself (it stays in the same position when ignition is off. so I manually moved it to 1/2. Connected it back, turned on the ignition and the needle started moving up! Not sure what's up with that but before that the needle was way down below empty like fully south west. There's always a chance that the needle moved slightly the first time I tried and I didn't notice because of how slowly it moves and how far it was from the markings. I don't know if the current needle position is accurate so I'll fill it up and see where that brings it. I guess I'll try to adjust it manually if it doesn't get to F. Looks like the needle position is relative and not absolute? Thanks all for your help and patience!
×
×
  • Create New...