Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Idling Issues

SiR_RB

By SiR_RB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, lately my car started to "hunt" at hot idle, I suspected the stock paper intake gaskets were the problem so I changed them all to HKS metal items,

Still did it abit so I wound the screw out of the AAC valve and all seemed much better, then today when I did a cold start it only reved to 1100ish when first cold, then goes to 1000at hot idle? Used to idle higher then slowly drop to 1000rpm

Then I went to start the car after it sat for about 30mins or so and revs were very low hovering around 700rpm and needed to tap the throttle to bring it up, then it drops again, seems like its like this until it all gets to operating temp....weird

So far took aac valve out and cleaned it

Replaced intake gaskets with HKS metal items

Don't have any problems with it idling high at all, never have

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Edited by SiR_RB
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411277-r32-gtr-idling-issues/
Share on other sites
SiR_RB Grand Master

SiR_RB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've had the exact same issue, found one of the hoses from the air chamber up to the balance tube was split. As above smoke test will confirm where yours is

Hope it's not that cos I ain't pulling my plenum off again !! Il try manage to squeeze/dislocate my hand to reach under there lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...