Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Fluid


t5iv
 Share

Recommended Posts

It's that time... Need to change the fluid. Have done a fair bit of research on the topic but can't make my mind up! So let's take it to the group. What works well for you guys? I, sticking to dot 4. Thanks for the input!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

as in the : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/ the best i have used and still use is Penrite SIN 600 (super DOT 4) realisticaly brake fluid is still brake fluid you will only see minor differences but for the best results i do recomend either the Penrite 600 or MOTUL.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For a normal road car, you will be fine with a decent qualtiy 'off the shelf' dot4 fluid.

If you do any track work, or other driving which requires excessive repeated braking, then go with a higher spec fluid with a higher boiling point.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input. Wasn't sure if Penrite was the way to go. Little sceptical after their motor oil assisted in blowing up my previous SR20... :/

Pretty sure the Penrite Sin 600 is in the DIY servicing list of oils to use for our car, that's where i got it from

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My brother-in-law linked me to this a while ago.

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

While it's specifically for engine oil, it just shows you how 'expensive' brands can absolutely suck.. So, it's good to do your research! I usually put Mobil One Gold bottle in, and the chunk that was left was the biggest there! I'll be going for Royal Purple next time..

As for brake fluid. TRW GP600 Brake Fluid is what I normally use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My brother-in-law linked me to this a while ago.

http://www.animegame...Oil%20Tests.pdf

While it's specifically for engine oil, it just shows you how 'expensive' brands can absolutely suck.. So, it's good to do your research! I usually put Mobil One Gold bottle in, and the chunk that was left was the biggest there! I'll be going for Royal Purple next time..

As for brake fluid. TRW GP600 Brake Fluid is what I normally use.

that link is great !

But not vq35de specific.. Royal Purple is actually not that great in our engines.

Mobil 1 and shell rotella t6 seem to do well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting read, but not really relavant, you can't just do one test and then proclaim the oil that performed best in that test as the most appropriate oil for any engine without testing all other conditions the oil will face inside an engine. Especially if the test conditions exceed any conditions found in an engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I usually use Mobil 1 0w40 (the gold bottle) or Royal Purple 5w30. Works well in the car - she seems to like it. With both I can do 10k km and have the oil still looking fairly good by the end.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^^ I have heard people suggest you are better off using a good quality dino oil and changing it more often, than using a expensive synthetic and changing less often..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on what the intervals are. Synthetic left in there for 20k kms will turn to liquid faeces. Crappy spec oil will do tops 5k i reckon.

However if you're doing changes at $60/bottle every 5000kms it works out to be more exxy than $100/bottle at 10000kms. Both will be in very similar condition at the end of their relative lives.

However, if you speak to Harold at Performancelub.com you can get 5qts of Royal Purple for about $70 or Mobil 1 for $65. WIN!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
    • Gave the Mazda it's first wash, it will need some clay, a light compound, and polish polish to remove a few swirl marks, but that will be a job for when I have a full day to get my DA polisher action on
    • Just did this job on my 32 with the boost doc kit. was quite simple to fit, hardest part was getting the rubber bungs back on the firewall. does anyone know how the heater will work now without the flap in the bend? Will I just have a heater on 24/7 now?
×
×
  • Create New...