Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as in the : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346667-servicing-your-v35-list-of-whats-needed/ the best i have used and still use is Penrite SIN 600 (super DOT 4) realisticaly brake fluid is still brake fluid you will only see minor differences but for the best results i do recomend either the Penrite 600 or MOTUL.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6581200
Share on other sites

For a normal road car, you will be fine with a decent qualtiy 'off the shelf' dot4 fluid.

If you do any track work, or other driving which requires excessive repeated braking, then go with a higher spec fluid with a higher boiling point.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6581274
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input. Wasn't sure if Penrite was the way to go. Little sceptical after their motor oil assisted in blowing up my previous SR20... :/

Pretty sure the Penrite Sin 600 is in the DIY servicing list of oils to use for our car, that's where i got it from

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6581324
Share on other sites

My brother-in-law linked me to this a while ago.

http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

While it's specifically for engine oil, it just shows you how 'expensive' brands can absolutely suck.. So, it's good to do your research! I usually put Mobil One Gold bottle in, and the chunk that was left was the biggest there! I'll be going for Royal Purple next time..

As for brake fluid. TRW GP600 Brake Fluid is what I normally use.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6582223
Share on other sites

My brother-in-law linked me to this a while ago.

http://www.animegame...Oil%20Tests.pdf

While it's specifically for engine oil, it just shows you how 'expensive' brands can absolutely suck.. So, it's good to do your research! I usually put Mobil One Gold bottle in, and the chunk that was left was the biggest there! I'll be going for Royal Purple next time..

As for brake fluid. TRW GP600 Brake Fluid is what I normally use.

that link is great !

But not vq35de specific.. Royal Purple is actually not that great in our engines.

Mobil 1 and shell rotella t6 seem to do well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6582735
Share on other sites

Interesting read, but not really relavant, you can't just do one test and then proclaim the oil that performed best in that test as the most appropriate oil for any engine without testing all other conditions the oil will face inside an engine. Especially if the test conditions exceed any conditions found in an engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6582859
Share on other sites

Depends on what the intervals are. Synthetic left in there for 20k kms will turn to liquid faeces. Crappy spec oil will do tops 5k i reckon.

However if you're doing changes at $60/bottle every 5000kms it works out to be more exxy than $100/bottle at 10000kms. Both will be in very similar condition at the end of their relative lives.

However, if you speak to Harold at Performancelub.com you can get 5qts of Royal Purple for about $70 or Mobil 1 for $65. WIN!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411628-brake-fluid/#findComment-6585777
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...