Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

iv done a quick search and unless i don't know how to use it, i couldn't find anything relevant to my issue.

long story short i recently brought a R34 Gt-t skyline and i knew that it had this issue but figured it couldn't be too hard to fix.

The passenger window works fine when i use the switches on the driver side, goes up and down smoothly, but when using the switch on the passenger side the window will only go up, to go down i would need to do it from the driver side, not much of an issue but an issue non the less.

From my understanding it would have to be the switch as if it was the motor it wouldn't work at all, just wanting to get some info from people who know about or have had the issue and fixed it, i sourced a R34 passenger side switch, does it make a difference if it is a jdm r34 switch or not? just holding off on buying it until i know that is what i need to replace for sure.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/411841-r34-passenger-window-issue/
Share on other sites

I've had no issues, but if driver side controls works fine up and down for passenger side, then it sounds like you have a problem with the wiring. Either you have done something recently to it and has cut or popped out a wire that runs the signal or it has, well cut or popped somehow.

Where in Sydney are you from? I could take a look if your near 2165?

Yeah I would be in due time, just not right now since I'd like to keep some controls of the car for now. If someone ends up buying the motor, then everything is sure to go.

My illustrated theory is attached :)

post-77866-0-57535600-1350568355_thumb.jpg

Ahh that's perfect thanks heaps man ill give it a look on Sunday

Switch mine failed once already , nissan solder joints suck and rain tends to drop right down on the armrest there if the window is cracked open

Series 1 and 2 cars use different switches that dont interchange , the cut off is 8/2000 and later is S2 , you can tell the series 2 switches are flat on the back white plastic area

Series 1 are bulged out

Series 1 uses normal size parts

Series 2 uses surface mount parts much smaller and a lot harder to resolder

Switch mine failed once already , nissan solder joints suck and rain tends to drop right down on the armrest there if the window is cracked open

Series 1 and 2 cars use different switches that dont interchange , the cut off is 8/2000 and later is S2 , you can tell the series 2 switches are flat on the back white plastic area

Series 1 are bulged out

Series 1 uses normal size parts

Series 2 uses surface mount parts much smaller and a lot harder to resolder

Ahk thanks heaps, iv read a lot about Nissan solder joints being crap as my stock boost gauge kept playing up and it was the solder joints in the black box, thanks for all the info, stupid question but how do I rep?

Ahk thanks heaps, iv read a lot about Nissan solder joints being crap as my stock boost gauge kept playing up and it was the solder joints in the black box, thanks for all the info, stupid question but how do I rep?

Series 1 switches you can resolder if broken

Series 2 you need skills, static straps heat sinks, etc or you'll over heat the part and kill it

Easiest fix swap it out for a working one

Series 1 switches you can resolder if broken

Series 2 you need skills, static straps heat sinks, etc or you'll over heat the part and kill it

Easiest fix swap it out for a working one

I got a series 1 but more than likely ill just go buy another one, thanks for all the help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...