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No worries i'll just take the tee bleed off and run it straight to the manifold I thought 8 psi would be fine. This is the first stock stock ecu I've used the rb20 used to run a nistune so I guess I'll have to save up for a power fc.

Edited by skitzone80b

Ur car is piece of crap that sound like it has had so many electrical chop and changes that it prob has no idea what to think any more if your gunna do something do it properly and not a home hillbilly job talking the Talk one thing but relating that to real issues is another stop being a try hard home mechanic with MATES and take it to a shop and get it fixed properly I feel sorry for the car it doesn't deserve what I've done to it

Lol. This guy.

Iv read many of these threads over the years being on sau . your probably better searching and you will find many answers.

what gap are you running with your plugs? higher boost = tighter gap , which should be 0.8 , using 10 - 12 psi . if not your car will feel un responsive , which never the less may not be an R & R problem which your thinking . i had the problem earlier this year when my car was off the road for few months , i done a fair few mods , from intercooler to plenum etc . raised boost and she felt like there was a brick under the pedal from 5 + . soon after remembered what i did in the past with other skylines iv had . as soon as i re gapped and threw in some new plugs , she really performed and felt good

Check various smaller fixes before you go spending cash . But in most cases , you start modifying a car it will run R & R unless you get it tuned , so really pointless thread trying to sus much out , because as others have said a tune is in order and get it done properly . pfc or nistune or something , and a dyno will show whats going on

Yeah thanks for that sky I understand the modifying the car will make it hit R&R I just assumed that 1 psi more , a catback exh and a front mount was still stock ya know . Plugs are gapped at 0.8 didn't realise that wasn't stock it's what they 20 plugs were set to and what the boys said they had there 25's set to. Soon you could slowly wind it on and it'd be fine I thought the afm might be pooey soon when you just stand on it and load it right up it only hits 4.67v. I'm just going to wait til next weekend and replace the cooler piping as it all came from a donor car n it was a little mismatched so I'll try rule out all vac leaks with that and remove the boost tee.

Edited by skitzone80b

And JJ I'm really surprised to hear that man everything else I got is carby n I always thought that if ya running a dead stock set up with the factory fuel injection system to run that set up it would be fairly accurate. Did the rb20's have this issue aswell or is it an s1 25 thing?

i wouldnt go that far with replacing intercooler piping . just do a boost leak test , its quite easy to make up a little contraption that hooks up to the turbo , pump about 15 psi into the system , get some soapy water in a spray bottle and find your leaks. you wont believe how many hoses have cracks that you cant see . i replaced about 6 hoses in my car , and tightened loose seals. it was at least 20% more responsive once fixed , as i had some pretty bad leaks . thats just another option to perform which may help the car from being slugish . at the end of the day all these little fixes make a major difference .

and a cheap boost controller will cause issues , leaks , spikes , if you ran it from factory solenoid itll definitly show a difference if there was a problem

Nah man literally I think two pipes have the bead at the end to help the seal of the silicone and it does need some new joiners I think honestly I'd be better off spending the $170 on just a piping kit with a whole heaps of new bends new joiners and good clamps.

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