Jump to content
SAU Community

2012 Gt-R Goes 10.67....


GT-R OZ
 Share

Recommended Posts

it's well known cars in US (even Japan) are always a good .3 -.5 sec quicker down the strip compared to what you can achieve on aussie soil - like for like

i think the main reason is the way they measure roll out, which on a hard launched awd car is a noticeable time advantage

Martin's 10.3 for eg would be close to a 10 flat on a US drag strip

a more accurate comparison when looking at acceleration times from different countries is the 60-130mph

Edited by domino_z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its easy to make big power out of these stock engines. The trick is to keep the stock rods inside the engine over the vehicles life......

Getting a one-off drag number isnt so hard if you put your mind to it. It certainly impresses a lot that dont understand the risks, and the massive potential cost, involved

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why you would spend 10's of thousands of dollars on modifications for an extra 0.1 to 0.3 of a second over a 1/4 mile is beyond me. Especially with these kind of results with just a mid pipe and tune. A good video this one, some nice shots taken from inside and outside the car.

#! Edited by GT-R OZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's exactly right. People who spend that kind of money to get such a miniscule increase in performance (which they would hardly ever use anyway) don't do it because it actually makes any sense, they simply do it because they can! :yes:

Edited by GT-R OZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry off-topic.

Hey Domino, how did you install your rear diffuser fins? Did you have to drill the carbon panel under the car?

I like the look and should reduce soot on the back of the car. Did you find any difference?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i get absolutely zero soot daily driving on e85, that's the best solution to reducing carbon emissions..... or Martin should have the new injector end pulse tables for cobb which may help on 98 Ron

im not sure what part you're referring too

I am running the top racing carbon lower diffuser which replaces the oem part

IMG_4881.jpg

These are the hks kansai diffuser fins I bought a while ago. I haven't installed them yet, looks like you have to drill into the oem carbon diffuser. I had to paint the leading edge on both pieces matte black as they were quite rough looking with excess resin

but i can't see how either part could possibly reduce soot

nengun-3618-06-kansaiservice-carbon_rear_diffuser_and_fins.jpg

Edited by domino_z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Dom -

Yup, that's the one - the Kansai diffuser fins. I thought you had installed that (saw your NAGTROC post).

Apart from the the good looks, the diffuser fins should extend the turbulent wake further behind the car at high speed, therefore reducing accumulation of exhaust output onto the rear face of the car. It should therefore reduce drag and improve rear downforce in conjunction with the rear upper spoiler.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

^ Whoop-dee-do!

What would that cost the average consumer... just to put things into perspective.

Around $5K all up is what most GTR retailers will sell this kind of package for depending on existing mods already in place (ie. exhaust etc). and what brand parts they use. Not bad for a daily driven 10 second car :)

Many different kits from many different parts upgrade manufacturers to do this on these great cars. GTRs are a great base, which is why we all like them so much here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK so I just bidded $500 on an R33 GTS4 that no one seems to want. Waiting on a call from the agent to see if I won. 32 GTS4 is for sale. I can't deal with the temptation to mod it.
    • Might be there for work later in the year. Wouldn't mind catching up with you fellas - can't have too many beers, but will consume copious amounts of takoyaki while executing an asian squat on the side of the road while you blokes sort out your hangovers.
    • I know one example is a anecdote not data, but I'm running the same Aeroflow 525 at full voltage through a regular relay, and while I've had other fuel problems including melting the factory fuel hat, the pump itself has been fine for years. Of course, they aren't *that* expensive these days, you could swap in a new one and see if the issue is resolve. I think you had a previous thread about fuel problems, have you been monitoring and logging fuel pressure? Is there anything voltage related (for example does the voltage go up when the pressure goes down)
    • Slap a 460L into the car, send its mum.  
    • So last night pulling away from the lights, I lost power for about 1 second. Bit weird, but I kept driving... 5 minutes later the pump completely dies. When I tried to start the car, the pump won't even prime.  I left the car for about an hour, tried to start it and it all appeared fine. Pump primed, car started, got the fuel pressure I should have.... Start driving home, 5 minutes later it dies again. I'm stuck in a shit spot this time going up hill with a car right behind me, so I just let the car continue to turn over while praying to the fuel pump gods. After about 2 minutes of turning the engine over, the fuel pump came back to life and I got home (only about another 5 min away).  So I've been digging around online, it seems like the 525 fuel pumps really don't like to be run at 100% all the time. I've found quite a few examples online of people killing their Walbro 525 pumps within about a year of usage when they are run without PWM.  So, my pump is an Aeroflow 525 (AF49-1057) and I've been running it at 100% without PWM. I'm thinking the Aeroflow 525 didn't like being run at 100% and has burnt itself up.  I really am sick of dealing with fuel pump issues, my current thoughts are -  1. Use a Walbro 450 and run it without PWM. It seems like these pumps hold up pretty well to being run at 100% all the time. I only make about 350kw and can't see me making any more power any time soon so this is probably a fine option.  2. Get a Walbro 525, run it with PWM. I know doing this will annoy me as I feel like with only 350kw, its extra expense that I don't "need" and I'll be thinking the whole time while setting it up that I should have gone with option 1. I know I'll be happy with this option when its setup and running, its only the initial setup frustration and cost as an issue.  3. Get a Walbro BKS1001 brushless pump. This is the fu*k it I'm already going PWM, might as well go full retard. This option just seems better in every way, with the only downside being cost. But I don't know much about this pump so I could be wrong.  Happy to get everyone's thoughts before I go digging around in the fuel tank again. 
×
×
  • Create New...