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5 stud skyline PCD

+38 offset all round fit flush on gtst guards

brand new yokohama tyres as of last week !

they are off the car and wont be driven on so tyres will remain brand new

bit of gutter rash i think 2 rims are pretty good 2 are ok

bit of paint fade in the centre of 1 or 2. depends how much you care, rims are very easy to spray up. :)

$1100

willing to take cash + r33 parts or simply a cash sale

parts id be after

r33 s1 bonnet

m spec front bar

ali radiator

a decent steering wheel (nardi, deep dish ... etc)

gearknob of some kind

gtr seats

oil pressure, oil temp and water temp 52mm gauges

roof spoiler

boot lip

400r rear bar

maybe other stuff just text me on 0421549607. or PM me.

can post, but not at my expense, but a deal can always be worked out :)

also have a r33 fibreglass vented bonnet ! very good condition only got minor hairline crack where the bonnet latches which seems to happen on most fibreglass bonnets...

$500 negotiable, just dont want it on my car!

again, swaps + cash or whatever would be acceptable.

post-86412-0-33051800-1352017529_thumb.jpgpost-86412-0-79351800-1352017646_thumb.jpg

post-86412-0-92972900-1352017658_thumb.jpgpost-86412-0-42519400-1352017668_thumb.jpg

bonnet 300 can post at your expense

same as wheels

also i may sell a greddy profec b spec 2

still in car and running, will be taken out if deposit is taken due to time wasters

cant seem to get an accurate price on these things. say $300

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
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