Jump to content
SAU Community

Drift Vr Commodore

johnny boii

By johnny boii,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

johnny boii Enthusiast

johnny boii

Posted
Posted

hey guys hopefully wont get hell shut down for saying any of this but im looking at making my 5 litre manual commodore into a drift car i have coilovers thick swaybars front and back 3.9 diff gears mini spooled diff im in the process at building the engine so it should have like 250hp atw but a shit load of torque just wondering if anyone has done it before and if they had any issues with it. i would be getting a hydraulic handbrake set up stripping the interior and 2 buckets and harness setup but the massive question is what kind of power am i looking at to make it through barbs also note i am a beginner haha only wanted to go commodore cause not many people have em and i have had this car years and love it. if anyone has any objections as to why i shouldnt also please tell me why haha :)

cheers in advance

jai

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413945-drift-vr-commodore/
Share on other sites
mz.qiksky Explorer

mz.qiksky

Posted
Posted

You've got the power and torque. You need to stiffen it up.... seriously. Suspension, sway bars, bushes. What you've got at the moment is good for starting, but if you want to advance you'll need to stop the excess movement.

OptiC Enthusiast

OptiC

Posted
Posted

We had a driver in the Drift series two years ago who did really well in his commo ute. He was making about 300RWHP but with a heap of torque.

As suggested, get the suspension setup nice and stiff and you will be fine with 250HP to start. We teach newbies at the back section of the track which is where you will be for your first outing. Come out to the track and well help give some advice on next mods to make.

Drifting is a lot about car setup but when starting out its all about getting time in the seat and learning!

johnny boii Enthusiast

johnny boii

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nice cheers @optic i shall are you a teacher? i think ill just set my car up first and then come down be quicker to get it all done rather then doing it in bits hopefully dont get ripped on for a commo ahah i have a 33 aswell but to nice to drift ahha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TheBushKangaroo
      Hello fellow enthusiasts

      By TheBushKangaroo · Posted

      Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • MBS206
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • DatsunBanana
      Rear subframe stay bracket bolt removal issues

      By DatsunBanana · Posted

      So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • hypergear
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By hypergear · Posted

      Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...