Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

selling my r34 skyline because i want to start saving for a house.

ive owned the car for 3years and have loved every bit of it.

took me a good 7months to find the skyline of my dreams so im not in any rush to sell.

the car has 131,xxxkms genuine on it.

the timing belt was done at 102,000kms by hills motorsports.

been serviced every 5,000kms by unique autosports and used liqui molley 10w - 40.

REGO 20-6-2013

money was well spent in the car no cheap bits only quality parts used.

engine

ive tryed to keep everything looking stock as possible so it doesnt atract attention even though i havnt even been pulled over in it the hole time ive had it.

- carbing cooling panel.

- blitz front mount intercooler returnflow.

- greddy oil cooler with thermostat sandwich plate.

- gt3076r garrett turbo with 3 inch midsteel dump pipe, low mount.

- 740cc nismo injectors.

- 355l/hr fuel pump

- z32 airflow meter

- iridium spark plugs (at 127,000kms)

- ProfecB spec 2 boost controller

- cushion button clutch (rear main seal changed when done)

- chromoly flywheel

- nistune ecu tuned by mrc at 275.2rwkws.

- 3inch engine pipe with hiflow cat , 3.5 inch Fujitsubo cat-back exhaust.

- greddy adjustable exhaust cam gear.

- i still have the stock intercooler , turbo , engine pipe, cat back , injectors, fuel pump.

interior

- Carbon fibre console an instrument surrounds (interior is immaculate).

- Aftermarket DEFI oil temp, water temp, boost guages with control panel.

- Nismo racing pedals.

- jvc dvd head unit, has usb and ipod connect and bluetooth, pioneer 6'9" rear, 6" front and split speakers with 4channel optional audio 600watt amp , 2x kenwood 12inch subs with a 1000watt kenwood mono amp (Aus radio frequency adapter fitted).

- saas racing seats. ( also still have stock seats).

- orginal skyline floor mats full set.

- boost controller panel.

- Optional traction control switch.

- hks turbo timer.

- A/C (climate control)

- changed dash lights to blue and have spare globes.

exterior

- nismo kit bodykit. ( with stock wing looks better)

- 19inch buddy club p1 racing plus 2 rims 275/30/19 kumho ku31s rear 245/35/19 front. about 80% tread.

- also have the stock 17inch rims with near new tyres 95% tread and 2 with about 50% tread,

- clear indcators.

- electric sunroof.

- carbon look pillars.

- dark window tint.

- Bilstein shocks.

- mu project brake pads.

$26,000

no low ballers thanks.

no joy riders.

as i dont want people thrashing the car and with no intention to buy,

i wont let you drive it unless you are basicly certain its the car for you.

post-76334-0-06452100-1353306991_thumb.jpgpost-76334-0-56622400-1353307013_thumb.jpgpost-76334-0-42576300-1353307026_thumb.jpgpost-76334-0-74193700-1353307089_thumb.jpgpost-76334-0-71629700-1353307113_thumb.jpgpost-76334-0-52140100-1353307252_thumb.jpgpost-76334-0-20243700-1353307270_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/413989-yellow-r34-gt-t-1998-275rwkw/
Share on other sites

im offering you all the stock parts included in the price.

looking around at other cars on carsales not many have sunroofs or even bodykits below 18k.

and cars that are higher then 18k have the power but lack in other factors.

ive spent well over 15k on the engine mods alone to have it at a safe tune and boost lvl with good power and i know ill be selling it at a loss as it is.

i would consider seling for lesser value without the stock parts.

without the

-stock rims with tyres

-stock turbo

-stock intercooler

-stock seats

-stock injectors

-stock fuel pump

-stock indicators

-stock cam gear

-stock exhaust from turbo to catback

i would take $24500

some more photos.

and a bought and history check so you dont have to .

you can check anyways doesnt worry me cost 18bucks always reconmend doing one incase seen alot of cars that have came back write offs.

car also has an air horn fitted to it thats what the switch is near the turbo timer

post-76334-0-24360800-1353392930_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-99160000-1353392946_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-86793100-1353392967_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-18367100-1353392990_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-40053700-1353393011_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-12362900-1353393031_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-23010000-1353393040_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-53709000-1353393062_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-52683900-1353393074_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-99419100-1353393089_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-38582800-1353393101_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-52309100-1353393115_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-83427100-1353393129_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-32417900-1353393150_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-51725400-1353393176_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-16045300-1353393202_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-38785300-1353393227_thumb.jpg

post-76334-0-54273700-1353393229_thumb.png

alright thanks for all the info. just noticed your car is registered as a sedan?

good luck selling it.

For your information go do a check on all the coupes and see what they are.

All the coupes are registered as sedans I checked with the rta and it doesn't matter because I thought it was an issue

surely RWC is covered at that PRICE! Also can you provide a break down of what costs $15K, as I only just did a quick estimate of around $8K for the engine mods??

Thanks

I'm at work I have the my receipts at home.

Part of that would also be labour cost.

I don't feel I should have to explain every little thing to people that aren't even interested in the car.

I don't need to sell the car so if everyone thinks it's to high I'll keep it doesn't bother me.

Thanks for answering my questions, it's not that I'm not interested because I AM looking for a GTT, yet I'm asking all these questions mainly because I'm very curious as to why it's priced as it is (though I can guess - and I was right). Having said that, it's way too expensive for me. So no problems!

surely RWC is covered at that PRICE! Also can you provide a break down of what costs $15K, as I only just did a quick estimate of around $8K for the engine mods??

Thanks

I'm at work I have the my receipts at home.

Part of that would also be labour cost.

I don't feel I should have to explain every little thing to people that aren't even interested in the car.

I don't need to sell the car so if everyone thinks it's to high I'll keep it doesn't bother me.

Thanks for answering my questions, it's not that I'm not interested because I AM looking for a GTT, yet I'm asking all these questions mainly because I'm very curious as to why it's priced as it is (though I can guess - and I was right). Having said that, it's way too expensive for me. So no problems!

Ok no worries, good luck with your search

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...