Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, have any of you got a photo of your car with the coby extractors fitted or any other type for that matter. I'm fitting a camber kit next week and contemplating whether or not to lower it at the same time or leave it stock to allow for the extractors if they hang low. I need to be able to get up my steep driveway

ive only seen pics of them , and i ,m not real keen on the design , no 6 pipe looks like its 2nd bend is too tight also same on no 1 pipe . they are not tuned length cos the front pipes look a lot longer than the rear ones . the primaries are 1 1/2 ", looking at the size of the rb25de ports they should be 1 5/8" primaries . i,ve had a quote from a business called GONZO PIPES , he makes the best , does lots of race cars , but will cost around $900 and that was with a tuned length megaphone for racing ... i got pics of the coby extractors if you want

If you've got a pic of the extractors fitted that would be great, otherwise i've seen a pic of them in a catalogue. I may be wrong but they do look a bit dodgey. Wrapping them in exhaust wrap and the red paint flaking off doesn't grab me either. I'm in Melbourne, are there any good exhaust places that would do a good job for a reasonable price?

Hi Guys,

Yes the Coby extractors are "dodgy", but they are good value for money.

They're cheap - not a lot of engineering could have gone into them.

However, we know they smooth the power and torque curves of the engine, improving drivability. The engine feels a LOT more torquey at lower revs and pulls well from about 2500rpm.

For me it was so noticable that on roads I drive regularly I could use 5th where before I had to use 4th.

So while they are definitely not optimal from a performance point of view (as dondesoto showed us), I reckon they do a great job for the money.

Cheers,

Greg

Thanks for that greg, i think i will just go with the coby's, so you think ordering them from partsco is the way to go? How long does it take and what do you recommend as to fitting them re the paint flaking off etc. Shall i strip the paint beforehand? Have you lowered you car or dos it still contain the stock suspension. It just worries me a bit if they're goign to be dragging on the road after lowering! Or going over a speed hump. I have lots of speed humps where i live :)

Cheers!

PartsCo are the way to go. You pay New Zealand price, so save a bit of money as well. If you can be bothered, I recommend stripping the paint and then either wrapping them in exhaust wrap or painting them with a suitable high temperature paint.

My car is stock ride height and I've never had a problem with scraping. I'll take a pic to show you how low they hang, if you'd like!

Cheers

Greg

2500$ for extractors only!?!?! $2K will get you a full(dump,front,hiflo cat,cat back and muffler) exhaust. not even 2500 for a full NA exhaust sounds believable, unless you gain like 30rwkw from the extractors alone. not saying i dont believe you Greg but that price is outrageous

although im a fan of buying 'proper japanese aftermarket gear' such as trust, hks etc due to them having alot of R and D, if a quality product cannot be obtained then custom is the way to go. custom tuned length non restrictive extractors could see as much gain as Fujitsubo extractors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...