Jump to content
SAU Community

extracxtors

gatty

By gatty,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SRW-1 Explorer

SRW-1

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, have any of you got a photo of your car with the coby extractors fitted or any other type for that matter. I'm fitting a camber kit next week and contemplating whether or not to lower it at the same time or leave it stock to allow for the extractors if they hang low. I need to be able to get up my steep driveway

dondesoto Community Regular

dondesoto

Posted
Posted

ive only seen pics of them , and i ,m not real keen on the design , no 6 pipe looks like its 2nd bend is too tight also same on no 1 pipe . they are not tuned length cos the front pipes look a lot longer than the rear ones . the primaries are 1 1/2 ", looking at the size of the rb25de ports they should be 1 5/8" primaries . i,ve had a quote from a business called GONZO PIPES , he makes the best , does lots of race cars , but will cost around $900 and that was with a tuned length megaphone for racing ... i got pics of the coby extractors if you want

SRW-1 Explorer

SRW-1

Posted
Posted

If you've got a pic of the extractors fitted that would be great, otherwise i've seen a pic of them in a catalogue. I may be wrong but they do look a bit dodgey. Wrapping them in exhaust wrap and the red paint flaking off doesn't grab me either. I'm in Melbourne, are there any good exhaust places that would do a good job for a reasonable price?

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Yes the Coby extractors are "dodgy", but they are good value for money.

They're cheap - not a lot of engineering could have gone into them.

However, we know they smooth the power and torque curves of the engine, improving drivability. The engine feels a LOT more torquey at lower revs and pulls well from about 2500rpm.

For me it was so noticable that on roads I drive regularly I could use 5th where before I had to use 4th.

So while they are definitely not optimal from a performance point of view (as dondesoto showed us), I reckon they do a great job for the money.

Cheers,

Greg

SRW-1 Explorer

SRW-1

Posted
Posted

Thanks for that greg, i think i will just go with the coby's, so you think ordering them from partsco is the way to go? How long does it take and what do you recommend as to fitting them re the paint flaking off etc. Shall i strip the paint beforehand? Have you lowered you car or dos it still contain the stock suspension. It just worries me a bit if they're goign to be dragging on the road after lowering! Or going over a speed hump. I have lots of speed humps where i live :)

Cheers!

Greg Veteran

Greg

Posted
Posted

PartsCo are the way to go. You pay New Zealand price, so save a bit of money as well. If you can be bothered, I recommend stripping the paint and then either wrapping them in exhaust wrap or painting them with a suitable high temperature paint.

My car is stock ride height and I've never had a problem with scraping. I'll take a pic to show you how low they hang, if you'd like!

Cheers

Greg

redline2003 Community Regular

redline2003

Posted
Posted

2500$ for extractors only!?!?! $2K will get you a full(dump,front,hiflo cat,cat back and muffler) exhaust. not even 2500 for a full NA exhaust sounds believable, unless you gain like 30rwkw from the extractors alone. not saying i dont believe you Greg but that price is outrageous

redline2003 Community Regular

redline2003

Posted
Posted

although im a fan of buying 'proper japanese aftermarket gear' such as trust, hks etc due to them having alot of R and D, if a quality product cannot be obtained then custom is the way to go. custom tuned length non restrictive extractors could see as much gain as Fujitsubo extractors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...