Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, have any of you got a photo of your car with the coby extractors fitted or any other type for that matter. I'm fitting a camber kit next week and contemplating whether or not to lower it at the same time or leave it stock to allow for the extractors if they hang low. I need to be able to get up my steep driveway

ive only seen pics of them , and i ,m not real keen on the design , no 6 pipe looks like its 2nd bend is too tight also same on no 1 pipe . they are not tuned length cos the front pipes look a lot longer than the rear ones . the primaries are 1 1/2 ", looking at the size of the rb25de ports they should be 1 5/8" primaries . i,ve had a quote from a business called GONZO PIPES , he makes the best , does lots of race cars , but will cost around $900 and that was with a tuned length megaphone for racing ... i got pics of the coby extractors if you want

If you've got a pic of the extractors fitted that would be great, otherwise i've seen a pic of them in a catalogue. I may be wrong but they do look a bit dodgey. Wrapping them in exhaust wrap and the red paint flaking off doesn't grab me either. I'm in Melbourne, are there any good exhaust places that would do a good job for a reasonable price?

Hi Guys,

Yes the Coby extractors are "dodgy", but they are good value for money.

They're cheap - not a lot of engineering could have gone into them.

However, we know they smooth the power and torque curves of the engine, improving drivability. The engine feels a LOT more torquey at lower revs and pulls well from about 2500rpm.

For me it was so noticable that on roads I drive regularly I could use 5th where before I had to use 4th.

So while they are definitely not optimal from a performance point of view (as dondesoto showed us), I reckon they do a great job for the money.

Cheers,

Greg

Thanks for that greg, i think i will just go with the coby's, so you think ordering them from partsco is the way to go? How long does it take and what do you recommend as to fitting them re the paint flaking off etc. Shall i strip the paint beforehand? Have you lowered you car or dos it still contain the stock suspension. It just worries me a bit if they're goign to be dragging on the road after lowering! Or going over a speed hump. I have lots of speed humps where i live :)

Cheers!

PartsCo are the way to go. You pay New Zealand price, so save a bit of money as well. If you can be bothered, I recommend stripping the paint and then either wrapping them in exhaust wrap or painting them with a suitable high temperature paint.

My car is stock ride height and I've never had a problem with scraping. I'll take a pic to show you how low they hang, if you'd like!

Cheers

Greg

2500$ for extractors only!?!?! $2K will get you a full(dump,front,hiflo cat,cat back and muffler) exhaust. not even 2500 for a full NA exhaust sounds believable, unless you gain like 30rwkw from the extractors alone. not saying i dont believe you Greg but that price is outrageous

although im a fan of buying 'proper japanese aftermarket gear' such as trust, hks etc due to them having alot of R and D, if a quality product cannot be obtained then custom is the way to go. custom tuned length non restrictive extractors could see as much gain as Fujitsubo extractors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...