Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Got a weird problem with my m35 250rx. I.ve recently replace a seal in the outer housing unit in the rear transfer unit as it was leaking. Ever since it came back from the mechanic, the car had a weird roughy ride after 60km and become very noticable traveling more than 100km where the the steering had a slight vibration and very noticeable noise. I've since taken the car back but they can't seem to find the problem. We had rebalanced the tyres, swap with the back to front. Done alignment twice at two different places. I had since taken the car to another mechanic and he checked the front assembly and they said there is nothing wrong.

Lately I've notice that the front left brake makes an annoying click/rubbing noise when braking close to a stop. When going downhill braking the car wobbles under brake but I am not sure if this is related.

I was told that tyres could be the problem but both workshop says the tyres are good. They check bearing and it's okay. One of the bushing in the front left lower connected appears to be on it's way out so I am not sure what to do. Any suggestion?

Rear shaft out of balanced?

I bet they didn't mark the position of the tailshaft, diff and gearbox flanges when they removed the tailshaft.

I realise it shouldn't make any difference; but sometimes it does.

The wobble in the brakes will be a front rotor with uneven pad material buildup. It feels like a "warped" rotor but it is actually different areas of the rotor having different amounts of friction. Machine the rotors, and it will disappear.

Disc rotors almost never actually warp; it's a dodgy diagnosis if someone say it.

Generally a worn wheel bearing will cause the brake problem.

There will be a rusty mark where the flanges meet, so if that lines up you can only have it one of two ways. (front half anyway)

I have tried mine in different positions with no vibration, perhaps my tailshaft is well balanced?

The wheel bearings just make a grinding noise, usually it gets worse as you go around corners.

Vibration could be uneven tyre size causing the attessa to play up but if it only happened after taking the tailshaft out, perhaps they dropped it? Where are you located? I have a complete tailshaft here, you could try swapping it over if you are local.

The brakes just need machining, $25 a disk I think if you remove them.

  • 1 year later...

Hey mate..

Did you get this sorted?

I'm having similar issues. From about 60kms to 70kms, there is a noticeable vibration, particularly within the cabin as the centre console starts to rattle. After 70kms it disappears. The steering doesn't vibration though, making me think it may be the transmission.

All 4 tyres were changed just under 2 months ago along with a wheel alignment. Brakes calipers and disc are brand new too.

Anyone have other ideas?

Cheers...

If the steering wheel doesn't wobble, good chance a rear wheel is causing the vibration. Did they mention a wheel had a buckle?

The centre tailshaft bearing could cause similar symptoms if it were flogged. You need to get underneath while it's on the hoist at 70. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...