Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Got a weird problem with my m35 250rx. I.ve recently replace a seal in the outer housing unit in the rear transfer unit as it was leaking. Ever since it came back from the mechanic, the car had a weird roughy ride after 60km and become very noticable traveling more than 100km where the the steering had a slight vibration and very noticeable noise. I've since taken the car back but they can't seem to find the problem. We had rebalanced the tyres, swap with the back to front. Done alignment twice at two different places. I had since taken the car to another mechanic and he checked the front assembly and they said there is nothing wrong.

Lately I've notice that the front left brake makes an annoying click/rubbing noise when braking close to a stop. When going downhill braking the car wobbles under brake but I am not sure if this is related.

I was told that tyres could be the problem but both workshop says the tyres are good. They check bearing and it's okay. One of the bushing in the front left lower connected appears to be on it's way out so I am not sure what to do. Any suggestion?

Rear shaft out of balanced?

I bet they didn't mark the position of the tailshaft, diff and gearbox flanges when they removed the tailshaft.

I realise it shouldn't make any difference; but sometimes it does.

The wobble in the brakes will be a front rotor with uneven pad material buildup. It feels like a "warped" rotor but it is actually different areas of the rotor having different amounts of friction. Machine the rotors, and it will disappear.

Disc rotors almost never actually warp; it's a dodgy diagnosis if someone say it.

Generally a worn wheel bearing will cause the brake problem.

There will be a rusty mark where the flanges meet, so if that lines up you can only have it one of two ways. (front half anyway)

I have tried mine in different positions with no vibration, perhaps my tailshaft is well balanced?

The wheel bearings just make a grinding noise, usually it gets worse as you go around corners.

Vibration could be uneven tyre size causing the attessa to play up but if it only happened after taking the tailshaft out, perhaps they dropped it? Where are you located? I have a complete tailshaft here, you could try swapping it over if you are local.

The brakes just need machining, $25 a disk I think if you remove them.

  • 1 year later...

Hey mate..

Did you get this sorted?

I'm having similar issues. From about 60kms to 70kms, there is a noticeable vibration, particularly within the cabin as the centre console starts to rattle. After 70kms it disappears. The steering doesn't vibration though, making me think it may be the transmission.

All 4 tyres were changed just under 2 months ago along with a wheel alignment. Brakes calipers and disc are brand new too.

Anyone have other ideas?

Cheers...

If the steering wheel doesn't wobble, good chance a rear wheel is causing the vibration. Did they mention a wheel had a buckle?

The centre tailshaft bearing could cause similar symptoms if it were flogged. You need to get underneath while it's on the hoist at 70. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Your chihuahuas look weird!
    • Call me the "Crazy Cat Man"...., maybe that should be my new forum name....LOL....., but seriously.....someone change it please, thanks Just grabbed the two black Oriental kittens that I ordered a few months ago to guard the house, I am assuming that because they are Orientals they know KungFu, Karate, or are Ninjas, or some other lethal fighting skill, even at only 3 months old they already have Parkour down pat Introducing...Bella & Donna
    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
×
×
  • Create New...