Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Got a weird problem with my m35 250rx. I.ve recently replace a seal in the outer housing unit in the rear transfer unit as it was leaking. Ever since it came back from the mechanic, the car had a weird roughy ride after 60km and become very noticable traveling more than 100km where the the steering had a slight vibration and very noticeable noise. I've since taken the car back but they can't seem to find the problem. We had rebalanced the tyres, swap with the back to front. Done alignment twice at two different places. I had since taken the car to another mechanic and he checked the front assembly and they said there is nothing wrong.

Lately I've notice that the front left brake makes an annoying click/rubbing noise when braking close to a stop. When going downhill braking the car wobbles under brake but I am not sure if this is related.

I was told that tyres could be the problem but both workshop says the tyres are good. They check bearing and it's okay. One of the bushing in the front left lower connected appears to be on it's way out so I am not sure what to do. Any suggestion?

Rear shaft out of balanced?

I bet they didn't mark the position of the tailshaft, diff and gearbox flanges when they removed the tailshaft.

I realise it shouldn't make any difference; but sometimes it does.

The wobble in the brakes will be a front rotor with uneven pad material buildup. It feels like a "warped" rotor but it is actually different areas of the rotor having different amounts of friction. Machine the rotors, and it will disappear.

Disc rotors almost never actually warp; it's a dodgy diagnosis if someone say it.

Generally a worn wheel bearing will cause the brake problem.

There will be a rusty mark where the flanges meet, so if that lines up you can only have it one of two ways. (front half anyway)

I have tried mine in different positions with no vibration, perhaps my tailshaft is well balanced?

The wheel bearings just make a grinding noise, usually it gets worse as you go around corners.

Vibration could be uneven tyre size causing the attessa to play up but if it only happened after taking the tailshaft out, perhaps they dropped it? Where are you located? I have a complete tailshaft here, you could try swapping it over if you are local.

The brakes just need machining, $25 a disk I think if you remove them.

  • 1 year later...

Hey mate..

Did you get this sorted?

I'm having similar issues. From about 60kms to 70kms, there is a noticeable vibration, particularly within the cabin as the centre console starts to rattle. After 70kms it disappears. The steering doesn't vibration though, making me think it may be the transmission.

All 4 tyres were changed just under 2 months ago along with a wheel alignment. Brakes calipers and disc are brand new too.

Anyone have other ideas?

Cheers...

If the steering wheel doesn't wobble, good chance a rear wheel is causing the vibration. Did they mention a wheel had a buckle?

The centre tailshaft bearing could cause similar symptoms if it were flogged. You need to get underneath while it's on the hoist at 70. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...