Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I'm needing to know the RB26 Timing Belt Cover - Length of bolts (all 3)

Did a search of the Main forum and hunted through 11 pages. No-one I can see has actually answered the question.

So if you have an R32 RB26 can you remove the bolts one at a time and measure for me. There is 5 but I'm after the 3 in the top half.

Thanks in advance

Richard

If you have some that would be even better :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Kyle. I'll be out Northside tommorrow visiting my Mum and maybe stopping in at Mitchell to take a few pics in front of Japspec.

PM me your address and a time that suits mate.

Cheers

Richard

Hey thanks heaps Kyle for the timing belt bolts.

as I mentioned I have some parts so PM me if you need something.

Cant remember - do you have a strut brace for the front ?

I really like the colour of your GTR, going to look even better with it's first polish. Great choice in rims to suit also.

Happy to buy it off you for the same price., and a six pack for the effort you've put in :thumbsup:

No worries man :)

Im guessing they fit then? I do actually have one, its on the floor waiting to have the ends painted. Ill keep the parts in mind :)

Haha thanks for the offer, its really generous but i havnt driven it enough to part with it yet :/

Ill keep it in mind though ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...