Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys... i've been having a problem with my R33 GTST miss firing and running rich (wet plugs). I've changed coil packs, igniter module and crank angle sensor. Still no change. I am starting to think that perhaps my stock computer is buggered as i'm getting an Error 21 Ignition Signal Problem on the consult computer (at the mechanics). I have a HKS FCONV, VPC and PFC-FCON so i'm thinking that the signal that they are giving to the computer is not being interpreted properly. I spoke to a tuning guy and he thinks that it could be the computer if i've changed everything else. I've got it booked in on monday for him to look at but would like to try a computer swap this weekend.

If anyone has a factory Series 1 R33 GTST Computer i could borrow till Sunday night that would be awesome... it would narrow things down further (and cost me less at the tuning workshop).

My mobile is 0411 570 590, or send me a PM if you can help out. I can come and collect the computer anytime. I'm in Melbourne, in Camberwell, so someone over the east side would be preferable.

Cheers, and thanks in advance

Andrew.

I've got my computer out. Takes 5 min, undoing 4 bolts with a 10mm socket. Surely someone is out there to help a fellow SAU brother! I'll even undo the computer for you if you aren't confident doing it.

Andrew

If you were in my state I could help you out, Bro.

My factory ecu is gathering dust in a desk drawer - not that it helps you much.

Bump for your thread.

Hope it's an easy fix for you, Andrew

it's all good... a mate is coming over with one of his mates who has skyline... so i'll post up if that was the problem. I'll get him to run my ECU in his car too to see if it runs really rich.

I'm kind of hoping it's the problem as it's an easy fix.

I swapped over the ECU today with another factory one. I have changed everything except for the HKS computer. I've changed crank angle sensor, coil pack igniter module, i've tested all the coil packs (all read 0.8 ohms), i've swapped over the factory computer with another one. So all that is left in the ignition circuit is the HKS FCON V, HKS VPC, and PFC-FCON and also the wiring loom. So either the HKS computer has crapped itself (or he fried it), or the current tune in it has been erased, or the wiring loom is damaged.

Starting to piss me off. I wish i knew what this other tuning place had done to it...

Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...