Jump to content
SAU Community

Replacing Hid Headlights With Halogen

ObiV35

By ObiV35,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

 Share

Recommended Posts

ObiV35 Apprentice

ObiV35

Posted
Posted

So, apparently my car (I'm not the first owner since import) managed to sneak through compliance without having the HID lights removed. Only problem is that I've moved interstate (NT) and they do a compliance check (in addition to roadworthy) when you transfer registration from interstate.

I'm told I'll either need to have them modified to be self-levelling and have spray washers installed, or change them back to halogen. I assume changing them back to halogen is cheaper, however what will I need to do this apart from disconnecting the ballast? Since pretty much nobody does this willingly I can't really find out what to do and would rather do it myself if it doesn't require actual rewiring (as opposed to changing a harness or something).

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

I imagine you will need some sort of adaptor to fit the halogen lamps into the existing holder. (Some dodgy compliance workshops glue them on!!)

Then cut the 12V cables that feed the ballasts and fit an appropriate halogen lamp connector.

If you are Planning on re-connecting the HIDs then just splice into the 12V cables rather than cutting. It will make swapping back easier.

ObiV35 Apprentice

ObiV35

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Sorry if I wasnt clear; I did already take it in (to the compliance place), and was told as above. Thanks sonicii, I'll have look around and see if there's any places that are confident of doing it I guess.

Edited by ObiV35
  • 5 weeks later...
Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted

What they havent told you is that it is illegal to fit a different type of globe into a reflector designed for HID, so fitting the self levelling thing is the only correct thing to do... Just dont tell them that theyve asked you to do something illegal or theyll get upset ..

i'd just take out the HID bulb and use the fog beam instead. There is no reason why you cant use the fog beam as a low beam. According to ADR's, the reflector is within the correct height tolerance from the ground, it is within the right distance from the cars width, and is the correct wattage, it only needs the beam height set...

then once the car is signed off, go home and put the HID bulbs back in. happy days

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

What they havent told you is that it is illegal to fit a different type of globe into a reflector designed for HID, so fitting the self levelling thing is the only correct thing to do... Just dont tell them that theyve asked you to do something illegal or theyll get upset ..

Are you sure?? can you supply a reference?

It would be strange that the requirement for these cars to meet ADR is the HIDs are replaced with halogens.. when this doesn't comply with ADRs??

Also, HIDs require headlight washers.. not just auto leveling.

Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted

its all in here..

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/motor/design/adr_online.aspx

the section referring to headlamps, and the section referring to filament lamps, both state that the "E" marking on approved ADR headlights will be void if modified without testing and approval, ie: installing a globe that is not the same as the globe type marked on the rear of the light assembly, due to filament and reflector misalignment.

Its up to you what you want to do, i personally wouldnt want to cut the loom and get rid of the HID components.

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted

Just jump through their hoops to get it through compliance and rego.

Mine came fitted with halogens due to compliance. All they had done is unplug the ballasts, jammed a single fillament bulb in there (the high beam is a dual fillament bulb with the fog) and tap a wire from the bulb to the ballast plug.

I've seen a lot of cars have the fog lamps disabled for compliance. Mine had the relay removed in fuse box behind the battery.

Once they sign it off and you have rego, put the HID bulbs back in and plug the ballast back in. Just stick to the low temperature color bulbs (I think it's 4000k?) so you don't attract the wrong kind of attention, like it's really obvious people have HID's when they use 6000k or higher bulbs.

Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

Posted
Posted

But wouldn't part of the RAWS compliance approval process include testing and approval for headlight modification to meet ADR requirements?

this is the annoying bit. it is as illegal to fit HID globes to a regular headlight reflector as it is to fit a filament globe into a HID reflector. In both cases they are designed to have the correct parts fitted.

as usual, government standards allow a downgrade to crappier filament globes. double standards.

Youll find that the RAWS process only signs off that it is no longer HID, infact they do no testing at all of the replacement install regarding light output

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

this is the annoying bit. it is as illegal to fit HID globes to a regular headlight reflector as it is to fit a filament globe into a HID reflector. In both cases they are designed to have the correct parts fitted.

A double standard isn't too surprising from the government.. They probalby just overlook the 'non-stanard' lamp for compliance purposes..

I guess if they leave the HIDs in, they also breach the requirement for HID headlights to have washers and auto leveling.. least of 2 evils maybe??

  • 3 weeks later...
ObiV35 Apprentice

ObiV35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to reply back, I got an auto sparky to fix my compliance issue. I was busy/lazy so it took me a while to get around to doing it. It now has modified H7 globes in there but all the wiring is still intact. Only 2 hours labor :) It would have taken me a lot longer, haha.

Thanks for all the info/advice.

ObiV35 Apprentice

ObiV35

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the ballasts are disconnected but not removed. I believe a standard H7 socket is in there, spliced straight from the original power before the ballasts? The D2R socket is still in there, just moved to the side. I think he had to modify the frame of the H7 globe so it would fit in the same spot.

see: http://www.consumabulbs.com/photo/499.jpg

  • 3 months later...
B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

how do i see if the balasts is disconnected im not even sure of where theyre located. This is a picture of mine. Could i just plug in the bulb and it will work need to figure this out before i spend on the bulbs and to find i have to do a lot more.

post-77241-0-27345900-1371435926_thumb.jpg

post-77241-0-44834600-1371435936_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just one thing; tapping tapered threads is tricky. Taps are always tapered and you would generally run it as far as you can, but with a tapered thread you have to stop much sooner otherwise the wide part of the taper will run in too far and you will have to thread the sensor in too far too as well (possible that it will never make a good seal) BTW nice wide wheels, I guess the top one is for the back!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity. Edit: 11kg each (or 10.9/11.1 depending on what my scale decides over multiple tests, the 18x11 don't seem to weigh noticeably any more than 10.5)  
×
×
  • Create New...