Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have been planning my stereo upgrade, but have had a change in direction (going to go all in and throw out the entire Bose system instead of trying to work around it). Unfortunately, this decision happened after I purchased a few things which I no longer need.

ITEM: Infinity Kappa 60.9CS

PRICE: $210+postage

DESC: I was planning using these in my rear doors, but have since found they don't fit (too deep). However, they are a good upgrade for those who want to do their front speakers, and they are one of the ONLY speakers that are a direct drop in replacement for Bose speakers as they are a rare 2 ohm impedence (same as factory). If you use a 4 ohm speaker on the Bose system, they will be very inefficient and lose a lot of volume. The Infinity speakers can be run off the OEM Bose amp with good results due to their efficiency (sensitivity rating of 93dB which no speakers in this price range can match). But they will also take 90WRMS, meaning if you want to amp them down the track, they will be up to the task.

COMPARISON REVIEW: http://caraudionow.c...t-car-speakers/

CONDITION: Brand new in unopened box. Waiting for them to arrive - will be sold on immediately.

LINK:http://www.crutchfie...ppa-60-9cs.html

eb6b18c531382e251bf9e109553fb27f.jpg

ITEM: PAC ROEM NIS2

PRICE: $45+postage

DESC: This is a must have for anyone who is planning on using an aftermarket head unit. When you change the head unit, you lose the digital signal that the Bose system runs off, resulting in a large loss in sound quality. This is a simple plug n play that goes into the Bose harness on one side, and into your head unit harness on the other end. With head units so cheap at the moment, it's the perfect time to upgrade.

CONDITION: Brand new in unopened box. Waiting for it to arrive - will be sold on immediately.

LINK & More INFO : http://www.pac-audio...x?ProductId=811

ROEM-NIS2.jpg

Pickup is avail in Melbourne CBD, OR BUY BOTH for $250 and I'll pay the postage.

Nothing digital about the bose HU signal.. it is just balanced.. so you just need a balanced to unbalanced converter or find an amp that can accept a balanced input.

Thanks. Which is what the PAC ROEM NIS2 is.

All you need to know is that if you want to run aftermarket head unit with your Bose speakers and amp - you need this.

Will also have a JL Audio 500/w Slash V1 series amp for sale soon too.

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Throw me an offer guys.

These will sh1t all over your Bose speakers.

Selling because I've purchased some Focals for my front stage (don't tell my missus)

Also have this for sale:

ITEM: JL Audio 500/1 V1 Class D Mono Amp

PRICE: $250

CONDITION: Used

DESC: It's a couple of years old. No scratches, just a bit dusty. Rated at 500WRMS @ 4ohm - it's currently driving a 250WRMS Sub, so it has had a very easy life. This is a top quality amp - only selling as I've bought a 5Ch amp so I can one run one amp to power my whole system and hide everything under the carpet in the boot. Can hear it running.

INFO: http://www.sonicelec...udio-500-1.html

jl5001.jpg

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Which Focals did you get? They are awesome stuff :)

I bought the P165 V30's....planning to run a front stage only - and remove the rear speakers and 6x9s all together.

http://www.focalaust...-v30-6-5-2-way/

Edited by SMOKEYC34

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...