Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi again everyone,

The engine was rebuilt to standard, there's no sump extension or anything dramatic that'd suggested the lower oil reading on the stick

As for the dip stick, it's a factory rb26 stick, so, it's odd that it's showing anything else but full with how much oil i've put in

Anyway, i've just checked the oil again after having it sit for awhile, it show's a very nice thick reading across the middle between the high and low, however, there's also streaks of oil up the dipstick towards the high?

Any thoughts on that?

I'll take a pic soon and post what i mean, if that helps anyone

Are you just pulling it out and looking at it? Or are you checking 2-3 times?

Are you checking the hashed side or smooth side?

I'm actually doing both:

Firstly to ensure that the oil is actually at that level and not just trickling down the dipstick when removed and then verifying it by wiping it off and diping it back in, leaving it for a moment and the re-checking the level.

This afternoon I checked over it 4 times, each time it registered "half full," interestingly though, there are streaks of oil that sit up towards the "high" point.

Just to make sure I wasn't causing this myself, I carefully pulled it, ensuring it didn't scrape anything.

So far this is stumping me, because it has about 5.6L worth of oil in it, in the stock oil pressure gauge is registering a normal oil pressure, operating temps are fine and the car is fully functional, so the low oil reading on the dipstick is stumping me lol

if the engine hasn't been running then the streaks of oil may well be where the oil is actually sitting. i'd actually get some thinners and wipe the top half of the indicating part of the dipstick. it may well have some contaminant on it that's causing to oil to bead, a bit like how if you try to measure the depth of water with something that has oil on it you won't get an accurate reading. i don't know what it would be that would make oil bead, but it's worth a shot.

also if the new oil is very clean and is simply sitting on top of the old oil, then you may be getting a bit of layering going on, so the oil is higher than what you are thinking is the level. i know sometimes when i first change the oil on the car it can be hard to tell the level. i find it helps to turn the dipstick at an angle to get the light to reflect off it so you can see the level. i know it's pretty obvious stuff, but sometimes people don't think of doing things like this, so it's always worth saying it just in case it makes a difference, or for someone who is new to doing this sort of thing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good tips, will get on those tomorrow. When doing the maintenance I did move a few of those connectors around, and things that are old tend to not like moving around. (Like me).
    • Don't try it. It will be shit. Better chance of damaging the engine than gaining any knowledge about the old one. Maybe, but unlikely, especially if the O2 sensor is working. You can use NissDataScan to look at the stock ECU.   Cleaning the AFM is seldom necessary and seldom helps. The R35 coil & loom conversion should eliminate dud coils or plugs. But as you still have misses - look to the plug where the coil loom connects to the engine loom, and the CAS plug. Need quality connections there. Also look to injector plugs. And the AFM plug while you're at it. Also look to whether your injectors are clean and flowing evenly. Get them out and onto a testbench.
    • Good to know, I feel like I am in for a rollercoaster ride that looks like a sine wave. 
    • You'll fit right in. Acceptance is the first step.
    • Hey folks. I've been lurking and browsing the forum for a while, since I got into my head that I wanted a skyline. Having purchased an overpriced completely stock GTT, (only "mods" it has is HKS pod filter and catback) now that it became legal in the US, it was all glorious and sututu noises here and there. But then I wanted to do things right and went to do basic maintenance. After all the fluids, filters done, I did the spark plugs, that's when the problems started.. First the car started spluttering at around 4.5k RPM. Which I gapped down the new plugs and that solved the sputter there, but the car now always misfires at idle with pops when lifting off and shifting 2nd to 3rd. Similar to the issues in this recent thread. I've been banging my head against the wall, reading the threads here and trying suggestions for a couple months now, so decided to start this one to explain exactly what I tried and what is going on. The symptoms of the issue: Idle and low revs misfiring intermittently. You can hear the exhaust tone change and the shakes on the shifter knob. It happens frequently, but doesn't seem to have a rhythm to it. Pops when backing off throttle. It pops and or burbles almost feels like it spits fire when it pops. (Happens mostly in 3rd gear at around 2k RPM). When under load and after 6k RPM, it also pops when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. There's a ticking noise at around 2k RPM in 2nd gear going downhill, seems unrelated though but I am out of educated and downright dumb guesses. Not noticeable lack of power when putting the car into load. The attempted diagnosis and solutions: Unplugging coils when the car is running This did nothing to change the idling and tone shift for every cylinder. Checking the exhaust headers with thermometer They all are within what I'd say it is margin of error of the laser thermometer New spark plugs Tossed two new sets, copper, iridium and using the old ones, still misfiring, even re gapped to 0.8mm, still same thing. MAF cleaned with the "specific" spray cleaner No changes in the issues what so ever. Brand new loom and r35 coil conversion (was going to add the r35 coils anyway) car runs arguably better, still misfires, but seems like does less frequently. Placebo? Code 21 now being thrown, thanks nissan gods. Removed the CAS to check the shaft for play or anything. CAS seems all fine, nothing that indicates any issue, visually speaking. Things to attempted next: Ordered a new MAF (chinesium from Amazon, to be able to return regardless of result). Fuel with proper gas, maybe it is this California water that they sell as gas that is to blame? Plugin the link ECU and check the info using the built in base map. Go back to BMW and eat my rob bearing breakfast without milky oil mixture.   Do any of you have experienced anything like this or have any suggestion?
×
×
  • Create New...