Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

At the moment i have a R33 GTS25de, and it has jasma headers then a straight 2.5 inch system cannon, and its putting out abit to much niose for all the people in my neighborhood said the police man and the epa haha, and im just wondering if any one here has got a varex exhaust, just so i can quiet it down when i need to. I've just heard they dont sound very good and they dont go much quieter, im just after some advice.

Thanks everyone much appreciated

post-89062-0-85722200-1357609279_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417256-r33-varex-exhaust/
Share on other sites

Hey guys.

At the moment i have a R33 GTS25de, and it has jasma headers then a straight 2.5 inch system cannon, and its putting out abit to much niose for all the people in my neighborhood said the police man and the epa haha, and im just wondering if any one here has got a varex exhaust, just so i can quiet it down when i need to. I've just heard they dont sound very good and they dont go much quieter, im just after some advice.

Thanks everyone much appreciated

post-89062-0-85722200-1357609279_thumb.jpg

Sound tinny and crap

Expensive

Only slight sound change

Illegal

.... just put another muffler in your system

/thread

Edited by Captain Natro

\reopen thread.

any stainless steel muffler/system will sound slightly "tinny".

OP, if you want one, get one, they are great.

In 2 & half years of owning one, not once been pulled up on it or EPA'd.

See an RBT/Police up ahead, close the valve & the car is quieter than my girlfriends hyundai.

works a treat.

yes they are expensive, but to me it was worth every penny.

yes they are illegal, so is a lot of other things, a quiet car doesn't grab attention & doesn't sound "modded" & I can only assume that if I didn't have it, I would have received at least one EPA notice or defect.

most of the people who say they are "shit", "Chinese crap", "valve fails", "overpriced" etc are either the ones who have never owned one, a jdm brand fanboy or were told on a forum they were junk.

just don't get the cannon, it's MASSIVE, the valve is visible from behind & it does sound kinda crappy.

oval body is the better choice.

big reply but hope it helps rather than your generic: "omg they are sooo crap lolz /END THREAD cause I know everything" response haha

Edited by lindz34

\reopen thread.

See an RBT/Police up ahead, close the valve & the car is quieter than my girlfriends hyundai.

works a treat -

but will still be a skyline, one look at the exhaust and its easily spotted and will then be tested with the valve open which I garuntee will be over 91db (I believe Joel's "wtf33" Natro was 103db when tested)

most of the people who say they are "shit", "Chinese crap", "valve fails", "overpriced" etc are either the ones who have never owned one, a jdm brand fanboy or were told on a forum they were junk -

have personal experience on both an sr20 and an LS1 in both instances open = raspy horribleness and when closed was quite simply on the worst sounds I've heard (think wet flatulence)

yes they are illegal, so is a lot of other things, a quiet car doesn't grab attention & doesn't sound "modded" -

its an NA skyline it won't sound modded because its not, save the money and build a decent system instead of trying to have the best of both worlds which in reality you end up with the best of nothing

Mate at the end of the day it's your choice, but IMO they're not worth the price (at all, especially on a NA)...

Edited by Captain Natro

I have twin tip Varex and I farking love it. Sounds great, is quieter than stock when closed (Skylines might arouse suspicion, but loud Skylines are begging to be pulled over), has saved my ass a few times and does not rob me of kw.

I do believe the twin tip is superior to the cannon style. When open its just a 3 inch straight pipe and...attached to a mild steel system won't sound tinny.

Nik since when did any SR20 sound good...my old work ute running on 7 cylinders sounded better than my S15 trackie with straight pipe, truth...

sell gay natro skyline.

buy hyundai excel.

save money.

learn to drive.

buy turbo skyline.

end of discussion.

Look out Paul or you'll get hit with one of these bad boys....

"omg they are sooo crap lolz /END THREAD cause I know everything"

but will still be a skyline, one look at the exhaust and its easily spotted and will then be tested with the valve open which I garuntee will be over 91db (I believe Joel's "wtf33" Natro was 103db when tested)

- as i said, in 2 & a half years & various RBT's/pull overs (incl. highway patrol) etc not once have they even looked at the exhaust.

have personal experience on both an sr20 and an LS1 in both instances open = raspy horribleness and when closed was quite simply on the worst sounds I've heard (think wet flatulence)

- but not on an RB?

my thoughts on this are exactly what birds wrote.

& just for the record, a mate of mine bought some $2k+ off the shelf headers back system for his 6.0L VZ commo, it was supposed to be the "beez kneez" & it has a horrible raspy note to it higher in the revs. Can't remember the brand but it's stainless from the headers to cats, then mild steel to the rear muffler.

its an NA skyline it won't sound modded because its not, save the money and build a decent system instead of trying to have the best of both worlds which in reality you end up with the best of nothing

- missing the point here, if the exhaust doesn't sound modded, then from my experience they don't check.

Mate at the end of the day it's your choice, but IMO they're not worth the price (at all, especially on a NA)...

- The OP wants something that he can quiet down when needed, so either a varex or an apexi ecv is what he needs.

I have twin tip Varex and I farking love it. Sounds great, is quieter than stock when closed (Skylines might arouse suspicion, but loud Skylines are begging to be pulled over), has saved my ass a few times and does not rob me of kw.

I do believe the twin tip is superior to the cannon style. When open its just a 3 inch straight pipe and...attached to a mild steel system won't sound tinny.

Nik since when did any SR20 sound good...my old work ute running on 7 cylinders sounded better than my S15 trackie with straight pipe, truth...

Birds knows what's up.

all bollocks.

sell your shit natro.

valve zorsts are pony.

get older. buy turbo.

you will NEVER get an rb especially a natro to sound nice.

course you called always drop in an ls1 hey nick?

Edited by Plattsy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...