Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's got less kms than your motor, so should by all accounts be in better condition. If you are doing that, put a little amount of copper seal around the plug Seals.

I think there is a rubber line outer seal to replace too, that sits in the cover? Scotty? Should only be a couple of bucks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205239
Share on other sites

Yeh, the rocker gasket is around $25.

I don't like putting sealant around them, as a thin smear might fall off and partially block the oil pump or pickup (as there is nothing to hold the sealant in place). I try to minimise the use of silicone inside the engine for this reason.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205256
Share on other sites

Should tell nissan that... Whole thing is held together with sealant! :P

I never had an issue with it when I was changing sumps over. No sealant disappeared. As long as the instructions are followed, the stuff works well.

If you use tons of it, and clamp it down hard immediately, then your right, you're in for a bad time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205318
Share on other sites

I will say it again for the deaf among us... There is nothing to hold the sealant in place, and nothing to clamp it.

As the tube is covered in oil the sealant won't stick, and there isn't another mating surface to hold it in place, hence why it will break off and float about the engine. It's a slightly different application to sealing the sump as there is a 20mm lip holding the silicone in place, plus you would be able to scrape it clean first and brake clean it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205325
Share on other sites

I see what Scotty means.

The sealant wouldn't help. It's just a thin metal edge.

Yes, but Nissan still used a little sealant on the cover gasket, at least mine had some when I removed it. Someone should tell those engineers the theory & see what they think....

On sealing around the spark plug tube, totally agree - it's pointless. Better to syringe it out every so often than risk it.

Edited by Commsman
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205404
Share on other sites

Yes, but Nissan still used a little sealant on the cover gasket, at least mine had some when I removed it. Someone should tell those engineers the theory & see what they think....

On sealing around the spark plug tube, totally agree - it's pointless. Better to syringe it out every so often than risk it.

It would have just been nice for them to just round off the spark plug tubes at the end to just a little flat surface, so it would seal better. But alas, I suppose the accountants got in their ear. Probably one of those will it last 3 years/100k kms things. Even the old honda I had (honda boi!) had a better mating surface.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205433
Share on other sites

It would have just been nice for them to just round off the spark plug tubes at the end to just a little flat surface, so it would seal better. But alas, I suppose the accountants got in their ear. Probably one of those will it last 3 years/100k kms things. Even the old honda I had (honda boi!) had a better mating surface.

How do you deal with no vtec? It must be so boring driving your s13.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205494
Share on other sites

Hahahahahah

My little shitbox didn't even have vtec! It was a uni student car.

I think it was before the whole vtec fan boi thing. The vtec models were pretty expensive in 2002, so kids couldn't afford them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7205499
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Nup, it was actually on the quarter mile it blew up.

The motor was suffering massive amount of Det, and was shedding the electrodes from spark plugs. One may have come off and rattled around, but it looks as if the det blew out the side of the piston rings too. You'll see more once you remove the piston and rod.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417327-my-pnm35/page/8/#findComment-7234469
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...