Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive always liked this section of the forum and thought might aswell start my own thread on some of the stuff I do in my spare time.

Ill start of with this chassis I built for FSAE race car at uni last year, designed by myself in CAD, laser cut most of the tubes with some hand ground and fully tig welded all in 4130 chromo, heat treated and torsion tested. Here are some pics.

post-50426-0-30854200-1357887084_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-48159000-1357887086_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-23436400-1357887088_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-35465900-1357887090_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-08584100-1357887092_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-80911100-1357887093_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-80670200-1357887095_thumb.jpgpost-50426-0-03192900-1357887098_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/417511-some-of-my-home-fabrication-work/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

hey mate,

where are you located?

i would like a few things done on my race car pm me if your interested, im in campbelltown nsw

Hi, I tried to pm you but for some reason it didnt let me. Im in melbourne try sending me a pm of what you had in mind although might be difficult dpending on whether its a job where the car is needed or not.

  • 7 months later...

Awesome work !

What uni course did you do?

And what tig welding machine are you using ?

Thanks mate, I did mechanical engineering at swinburne and Im using BOC smootharc elite 230.

Oh you are the guy who did last years car? ;)

I'm a student at Swinny, always wondered who did the welds on the car. They look fantastic! I was actually going to contact you to try get some stuff done for my skyline (intercooler piping, front/dump pipe)

Good work buddy!

Oh you are the guy who did last years car? ;)

I'm a student at Swinny, always wondered who did the welds on the car. They look fantastic! I was actually going to contact you to try get some stuff done for my skyline (intercooler piping, front/dump pipe)

Good work buddy!

Yeah that was me mate I did last years car. Thanks for that, although I was pretty dissappointed by the welds on the frame wish I could redo the whole thing again lol.

Yeah if you do end up wanting anything made up let me know will sort you out.

Mate they were fine! Haha. Pretty nice little car that I was surprised I fit into so well! Hopefully this years car is good too!

I definitely want some stuff welded up! Hit me a pm and we'll see what we can come up with!

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...