Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gday ppls im fairly new to the modding scene but im eager to learn as i just got my first r33 gtst and i been hearing this sound om otherturbo imports where u can hear the turbo make a kind if ch ch ch ch wind down noise....i reakon this noise sounds tuff but i have no idea how to get it...is it from an aftermarket BOV or sumthin else????? ne help is appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/41763-how-do-i-get-that-noise/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

this noise i called compressor surge. Its caused by nt running a bov or blocking up the one you have.

it might eventually f*ck up your turbo. When the Throttle body closes the compressed air comes back and through the turbo. The compressor wheel the chops up the air.

Nissan put it there for a reason

this noise i called compressor surge. Its caused by nt running a bov or blocking up the one you have.

it might eventually f*ck up your turbo. When the Throttle body closes the compressed air comes back and through the turbo. The compressor wheel the chops up the air.

Nissan put it there for a reason

correct me if im wrong but i believe sequential bov's make that noise while still venting all that nasty pressure away from your turbo. thats the difference between a normal bov and a sequential, sequentials make that ch ch ch noise...

correct me if im wrong but i believe sequential bov's make that noise while still venting all that nasty pressure away from your turbo. thats the difference between a normal bov and a sequential, sequentials make that ch ch ch noise...

dunno bout sequential, but my super sequential does that. its normal and healthy.

Guest INASNT
gday ppls im fairly new to the modding scene but im eager to learn as i just got my first r33 gtst and i been hearing this sound om otherturbo imports where u can hear the turbo make a kind if ch ch ch ch wind down noise....i reakon this noise sounds tuff but i have no idea how to get it...is it from an aftermarket BOV or sumthin else????? ne help is appreciated

Sell ur car and buy a VL turbo if u want that sound :)

I had that sound when i got my new turbo setup and had no BOV's on. It sounds tuff but ***s ur turbo up, plus causes extra lag between gear changes coz the air going back around to the compressor slows down the blades during gear changes

Sell ur car and buy a VL turbo if u want that sound :)

I had that sound when i got my new turbo setup and had no BOV's on. It sounds tuff but ***s ur turbo up, plus causes extra lag between gear changes coz the air going back around to the compressor slows down the blades during gear changes

or just buy a sequential, a new turbo is a bit of an overkill

i have a arc bov sequential that makes the noise, and is as good for the turbo as a normal bov

Guest INASNT
or just buy a sequential, a new turbo is a bit of an overkill

i have a arc bov sequential that makes the noise, and is as good for the turbo as a normal bov

I never said to buy a new turbo.

And the sound any BOV makes is not the same as the sound the air makes when it gets chopped by blades spinning at over 80,000rpm.

replace your stock airbox with a pod filter. You'll hear the ch ch ch sound easier without having to replace your BOV.

I did this and it sounds freaking mad when I take my foot off the gas slowly.

I've got an A'PEXi Power Intake (pod filter) and I've been told it's one of the loudest.

mate, I've got 2 BOVs hooked up at the moment (stock plumbback and Blitz SS) and I get the flutter sound. Explain that. Is my BOV on too tight? No, as I can still hear the air pass out through the Blitz BOV...

A pod filter makes a world of difference.

Guest INASNT
mate, I've got 2 BOVs hooked up at the moment (stock plumbback and Blitz SS) and I get the flutter sound. Explain that. Is my BOV on too tight? No, as I can still hear the air pass out through the Blitz BOV...

A pod filter makes a world of difference.

The flutter sound is not the same as the DUT DUT DUT sound of air being sliced up by the comp blades

as far as im aware, differenty bov and filter combo's will give different noises as not 100% of pressure is released through the bov on ANY bov, some will always go back to the turbo, the better the bov the less that will travel back. so in many cars you will still here a flutter, just depend on how much u hear will be determined by the bov and filter and turbo and boost psi... correct me if im worng this is my opinion only

have you noticed how sequential or twin chamber bovs have 2 vacuum lines?

this is to open the 2 pistons.

these are designed that way to have less chance of leakage under severe boost applications.

that is the only reason for sequential or twin chamber bovs.

it does not make any sort of sequential noise.

a bov that is working properly should make a single release sound and nothing else.

sure the volume and pitch may vary (comparing a turbo smart to a HKS SSQV's high pitched squeek noise), but it should only make a single release sound..

not multiple chu chu chu or other chopping sounds..

if you are hearing ANY noise from the air filter on a car with an ATMO venting bov, then the bov is not doing it's job properly.

any sort of fluttering or chopping sound is from the turbo chopping the air and can be heard from the air filter..

the flutter noise can also be different from car to car depending on a number of things..

size of turbo, the material used for the inlet pipe, the intercooler, the type of material used for cooler pipes, the length of these pipes...

ever hear a skyline with a stock cooler and blocked bov and pod... it is like a trrrrrr sound.. then same car with a new FMIC and larger and longer cooler pipes, the sound is completely different.. reason is that the pipes are of larger capacity and the air is forced out with less pressure and the fluttering sound is changed to a more deeper and slower flutter..

I hope this makes sense..

have you noticed how sequential or twin chamber bovs have 2 vacuum lines?

this is to open the 2 pistons.

these are designed that way to have less chance of leakage under severe boost applications.

that is the only reason for sequential or twin chamber bovs.

it does not make any sort of sequential noise.

a bov that is working properly should make a single release sound and nothing else.

sure the volume and pitch may vary (comparing a turbo smart to a HKS SSQV's high pitched squeek noise), but it should only make a single release sound..

not multiple chu chu chu or other chopping sounds..

if you are hearing ANY noise from the air filter on a car with an ATMO venting bov, then the bov is not doing it's job properly.

any sort of fluttering or chopping sound is from the turbo chopping the air and can be heard from the air filter..

the flutter noise can also be different from car to car depending on a number of things..

size of turbo, the material used for the inlet pipe, the intercooler, the type of material used for cooler pipes, the length of these pipes...

ever hear a skyline with a stock cooler and blocked bov and pod... it is like a trrrrrr sound.. then same car with a new FMIC and larger and longer cooler pipes, the sound is completely different.. reason is that the pipes are of larger capacity and the air is forced out with less pressure and the fluttering sound is changed to a more deeper and slower flutter..

I hope this makes sense..

damn i got a $600 bov on my r31 that flutters, time to get out the allen keys and loosen her up a bit i think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...