Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Whenever you do a mod to your car it's handy to have some insuctions if you've not done it before, so I thought I'd make this tech article.

This shows how to install a band expander for your radio if you have an imported V36.

Also i have a question for someone with more knowledge on this than me. After the above install I did get more radio channels but they are not very crisp. Any thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418082-v36-band-expander-install-guide/
Share on other sites

Frequency band expander install for imported Japanese radio in a V36.

Allow 45min. for first timers.

1. Tools:

Phillips head screw driver

Small flat screwdriver for undoing cable plugs.

P1050296_zps7e25cf48.jpg

2. Parts: Frequency or

band expander (this one is

from synergy) $50

delivered in a few days

P1050292_zps65d9d959.jpg

This is the old style and

won’t work on the V36,

more suited to the 300zx

etc. I Found out after I

had already removed the

radio. Wrong connectors

P1050293_zps93b298b4.jpg

Step 1. park the car somewhere shady, open the windows and doors. Now disconnect the battery negative terminal.

Step 2. Gently push down on the plastic sheath

on the shift boot.P1050278_zps98bf91d8.jpg

Step 3. Unclip the shift know clip, carefully as this

can spring off and disappear as it is a kind of

spring clip.

P1050279_zps20d5e4ed.jpg

Step 4. Roll down the shift boot,

there is a small looped piece of

wire inside the boot which holds

it on. Notice it will have a pointy

side, it is not round. Later when

you get the shift shroud off

remove this wire and squeeze it

closed a bit. This will tighten it

for re-installation later on. See

the second pic also.

P1050280_zps29c7a484.jpg

underside later

P1050297_zps7d7bcc25.jpg

Step 5. Slide the shift knob

off, try not to touch the

white part as it has grease on

it.

P1050281_zpseb1de4df.jpg

Step 6. Put you’re your

fingers into the boot as

shown and pull back and

slightly up, not hard, two

fingers should be enough.

P1050282_zpsd0c3ce75.jpg

Lift the shroud up a bit. You

will notice it fowls on the

shift lever.

Reach under the shroud and

pres the white square under

where the shift lock is. Now

you can move the shifter

back to N and lift off the

shroud. See third and fourth

pic also for step 6.

P1050283_zpscdede918.jpg

P1050284_zps37a3b29b.jpg

Carefully unclip the two electrical connectors and place the shroud somewhere safe.

P1050285_zpsf07c0834.jpg

Step 7. Now you are left with this.

Next remove these two screws at the bottom outside corners of the radio facia.

P1050286_zps76d31bf3.jpg

Then lift out as shown.

P1050287_zpsf6b6d193.jpg

Undo harnesses

Now undo the three wire connectors.

The flat screw driver can help push

Down the clips to allow them to be

removed.

P1050288_zpse4b333ae.jpg

Step 8. Remove the next two

screws under the airon/TV screen facia

P1050289_zps8aabe400.jpg

Lift out the display surround from

the bottom first.

Now you can see this

P1050291_zpsd81c93e0.jpg

Step 9. remove these two screws

under the screen, they held the screen and the radio housing.

P1050291_zpsd81c93e0.jpg

And the two screws under the

radio unit.

P1050290_zps5fee65cc.jpg

Step 10. Pull the radio unit

forward, the plug your looking

for is on the right hand side of

the back of the unit. In this

picture you can see it after I have

disconnected it. This one is a bit

tricky as the unit is still held in

with a heap of other wire

connectors, so just be patient with

it, don’t want to break anything

in there.

P1050294_zps34bc3ea9.jpg

Now simply connect the band

Expander to this connector, and

The other end to the radio unit.

Tuck the expander module in

behind the radio, I put mine in

the space beside the radio unit

and the relays on the drivers side.

Now just put it all back together

in the reverse order.

P1050295_zpsc8f8c349.jpg

Sorry about the poor cut and paste method of displaying the above. I did in word but the file was 74Mb and I have word 2000 so can't compress the files :P

So still trying to find out how to improve the clarity of the stations though.

Well I moved the expander housing to behind the HU instead of next to it and the relays. Thought the relays may have been interfeeing with the reception, no. Didn't fix the problem. But after I had put it back together I though I'd check the expander was connected properly. It was, but what I noticed which I didn't notice when I installed it, is that the stock wire harness connector has three wires and the band expander only has two. So I'm guessing that this wire that is missing from the band expander is some sort of AC power wire. Hence I have the same problem most have where the power to the antenna is not properly connected. More research is needed. Need to install a wire on the band expander to try it out.

Original harness.

P1050307_zpsc5a37dac.jpg

It's the large black wire (near my thunmb) that is missing from the band expander.

The band expander harness

P1050309_zpsed8c73a4.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so problem solved. I was correct, the missing wire in the band expander is required. I was able to diconnect the existing wire from the existing harness and connect it to the new harness. Then connected the band expander using the OEM plugs and Bobs your uncle, I now have a working radio. I have photos but photo bucket is not works. Also if anyone is thinking of buying from Synergy there is nothing wrong with this product. You can still make it works plug and play. Also might I add their customer service is great.

  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

SO I bought another band expander this time with a power wire. Connected the power wire to the violet cable on one of the hard drive harnesses that showed 12v when ACC on. Check with multi meter and there was power to the band expander when acc on. Put it all back together and I have no radio signal at all.

To make thinks worse i pulled it appart to check again but had been fiddleing round with the multimeter in between. Wen I checked again with the multimeter from the body of the radio housing to the power wire there was a tiny spark now I have nothing in the centre consol working. No ac, no dispay on the touch screen and no radio. I've checked all the fuses I can find, drivers foot well and near the battery, all fine.

Please help.

Ive checked every fuse on the car and they are all ok, including the ipdm fuses. Just had another look and there still seems to be some power to the harness on other wires. Perhaps the repair is a simple bypass of the wire I fried?

Chris will try to get the missus to bring the car up during the week.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
    • I was able to get some underside photos while the car was on the ramp The suspension is all Altezza/IS200/IS300 so getting part's will hopefully be less of a headache
    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
×
×
  • Create New...