Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys so i recently slid my rear left hand tyre into the curb ( sadly i wasn't even drifting lol). I drive a (R34 - GTT)the tyre ended up with postive camber, with the tyre looking heaps weird. I didn't hit it that hard though, and from what i've seen the:

- rear left lower control arm was bent. I just want to make sure, whats the exact name of this triangle shaped metal piece (left of picture)

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQuhoCVVcZpHS5uCyVQtVF6H25LzvqYMOSIvN6jWRu9k-g_4U_KjrhPROZZsA

- also this is the part that confuses me, i bent what looks like a tierod end going to what i assume is the HICAS system.

I can't figure out how to get this rod out since it looks like a ball bearing.

so how do i get it out? is the part expensive/ hard to find? since it's hicas and not many people like hicas anyways, can i leave the bent one in there?

Thanks heaps guys

Yup, lower control arm. And yes, the HICAS tie rod has a rod end on it (spherical joint). Needs to be split the same way as any such joint.

You should also check the upper arms for little bends, and the bolt holes in the rear subframe (particularly the lower ones) to make sure they haven't been deformed to oval in the prang.

thanks heaps for that, what would cheap prices for second hand ones of those be? are they hard to find?

and with the tierod is it necessary that i replace it? its bent a little, but i figured is HICAS even that useful?

Dunno about prices, as I haven't bent anything like that in a looooong time. Look on the classifieds here, there's always someone wrecking something.

And yes, unless you get rid of HICAS completely, it is part of your steering system and needs to be straight.

yeah ended up buying the control arm and tierod end. everywhere i called wanted 150+ for the control arm and 100+ for the tierod end. found a guy selling the arm for 80 and tierod for 40. picked up the parts and they're perfect.

if anyones in western sydney n needs skyline wrecker parts make sure to give this guy a call.

0410069096

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...