Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thinking off selling my r32 gtst coupe 5 speed manual

its burgandy, paint is in quiet good conditon bonnet is matt black couple lil dents ect

motor has done 195,xxx timing belt an idle an tensionor replaced 200ks ago with genuine nissan parts new water pump also done

has a chipped ecu mines blitz or niz tuned not sure

has a custom turbo it consists on a rb30 rear an a r33 front with steel wheels full boost by 4200rpm (12psi)

full 3 inch exhaust twin shot gun tips out back

blitz return flow intercooler

k&n pod filter an metal intake pipe to turbo

greddy electornic boost controller

040 bosch fuel pump

spit fire coil packs

execdy heavy duty clutch gear box is fairly tight

car performs very well an it is a very healthy rb20det

interior

all standard besides steering wheel very good condition

auto meter boost gauge

turbo timer cant remember brand hks or some thing

sony head unit sony amp mounted in boot

rear speakers are amped

car also has apexi suspention

18 inch dished mesh wheels with polished lip

ill throw in standard 16s with road worthy tyres

an stock suspention, also a set of r33 GTR injectors

$5500ono car has rego till sep or oct 2013 selling with out road worthy car was road worthyed 2 or 3 months ago

should only need to be lifted up an standard wheels put on 18s however might pass

open to offers no swaps selling to start a house deposit

car is in high condition always serviced as im a mechanic

with a power fc or microtech ecu this could turn into a quick car

i use this as a daily driver an its been very reliable now got a ed on gas lol

for pics contact 0400529635 plz txt unless after 6pm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/418186-r32-gtst-93-skyline-m-spec/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...