Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone give me tips on how to get access to the boot latch motor?

My boot intemitantly doesn't work, I've replaced the control module , and no change.

It's either the button or the micro switch on the motor .

But the plastic under the interior cover is moulded 1 piece and the gas strut and hinges all bolt through that plastic.

Tries to pop off the lower tail gate outer which is plastic, but I'm to the point where I'm going to break the clips that hold it in.

Anyone got any knowledge of this?

I'm pretty much out of ideas .

Taking the whole tail gate off the car to change the motor just seem really dumb, I'd expect that from KiA or Hyundai

Hey mate ive completed this and what a .... of a job it is. Ok 1st take off the inside boot carpet untill you can see motor. On bottom off boot where it latches there are 3 star screws that have to be removed. On inside off boot cover there are 3 bolts from memory that. Need to be removed aswell. Next you need to pop out the outsude boot panel a little bit as there is a support mount with 2 bolts in there. This bit is really fiddly.No you dont need to remove the whole panel. Next you will have to unclip wires and seperate the boot latch

inside the boot door to remove. To fit new replacement you will have to seperate unit into 2 and reverse the last previous steps to install. The support in lower outside boot panel i didnt bother re installing as it was too anoying. Hope this helps. Its a anoying and fiddly job but well worth the effort . I hated opening boot via inside latch before i did this.

Edited by joshm35

Thanks josh, sounds like a royal biatch!

If I can remove the lower boot panel in the outside I'd have clean access, I've take off the clips on the trailing edge so I can see under it a little, but I just don't want to break all the clips that hold the rest if that panel in.

You have that same problem?

Sorry about my bad spelling above, kinda paint a bad picture.. was on my phone as well.

Ive got another motor and module here, changed the module and the issue is still there, now for the motor, if its not the motor then its the button... please dont be the button!!!

ill attempt to pop the lower outer panel off.. i swear i was going to break it yesterday ...

Thanks for the tips guys.. will let you know how i go.

So I got the job done,

Got the latch mech out in one piece , I took some pics of the process to show how it's done, because if you don't know it's a real pain doing it.

Will post them up with a brief description so the next guy can have it done in under 1 hr.

Will post them up with a brief description so the next guy can have it done in under 1 hr.

Good onya Max. Post it up on m35stagea.info as well. That's where all the good info resides.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Damn it, first this then my bike wont start and had to leave it at the servo. This just isnt my week.

Hopefully Classone still has his how to on it.

Now off to look for a new motor and get my bike before it gets pinched.

I'll see if I can dig up the pics.

I'll try explain the main things.

1st remove the inner tail gate. (Carpeted lower section)

And the plastic outer, your gonna need a flat blade to lever it.. I thought I was going to break it.

It's stubborn!

Peal back the plastic so you can look inside.

Take the (4 or 6) bolts out of the boot latch/mech

It's all one piece.

Un clip the wiring, and I think I moved the control box which is on the left hand side (viewed looking at the latch)

The motor/mech assembly is a bitch to remove..

It's so tight!

I dropped in down into the cavity and moved it to the right of its mount bracket.

It pretty much has to do a complete 360 to remove it and you remove it from the left of where it was bolted in..

So it drops down moves to the right, goes around the mount bracket while starting the 360' turn and exits a hole to the left of its original mount position.

The pain is the latch! It's size!

Once it's out and moved to the right, push the thinner section (with the motor) up as far as you can get it into the tight cavity (towards the glass).

Then rotate it clockwise while trying to get the fat latch past it's mounting points..

I can't stress how tight this is, you don't need physical force, it's like there is only 1 way it works, period!

After you get the latch past the mount bracket,

Keep rotating until you get the latch pointing towards the glass,

If you look now into the boot from the left side of the latch mount, you can see another cavity,

Push the fat latch up into it,

You then should be able to rotate it clockwise while pulling it down and to the left to complete its 360' rotation and end up with the latch facing you.

You will need your flat blade again to slightly bend the plastic to get the latch thru the cutout and out it comes,

Do the opposite to get it back in.

That gives you an idea.

I'll try and find the pics I took.

Don't have the stagea anymore, took on 2 kangaroos... Write off!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...