Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And it also has factory fitted sports pedals,,,, not that its gona make it go faster or anything,,,

Pic attached,,

The interior is a bit dirty,, and the whole car needs a good scrub. with the polish-upperer :headspin:

BTW: anyone after some TE37 Volk rims? They are damaged,

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...0390#post860390

C yazz

Afro

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Wow that's one whacky looking radio in there! :) You've got the plushier SII velour seats though, hope they aren't as dirt attractive as the cross-weave nylon ones in my car....that stuff stains to buggery for no reason!

The silver leather inserts on the steering wheel have always thrown me a bit...still not sold on that.

ooooooo.. dan do you know what or who knows how to get stains out of the seats? I have a few and was only successfully in reducing one of them.. :)

AFRO:

You'll most likely find the people that is paying under 2k for insurance is rating one with no traffic offence history.. like.. me.. :) But it also depends on when they join the insurance company too.. :)

Yotis: you have to really give them a caning with interior cleaner...that supercheap stuff is good....but the trick is to dry the seats really well, then let them air dry....or the water marks stay :)

Yeah rating 1 is good :)

Oh mannnnnn,,,,,, this just ruined my weekend,,, now the car carrier ppl say it'll be here on tuesday,,,!!!! sheeeeeeesh!!!,,,,

oh btw,, i got seat covers from the r33 that i'm gona use,,, so no stains for me, hopefully :(

anyone know where i can pick up clear indicater lenses for the front bumber? that's probably one of the first things i'm gona change,,,

have a good weekend everyone byeeee

Or you can just replace with leather...that's my plan...as I'm not keen on the nylon stuff.

It's $2000 for all the seats and door inserts, as long as you don't go for whacky colors.

Yer well. unfortunately the wallet cannot stretch tat far atm... leather would be good.. But if go leather the door trims should be done too... = more $$$ :(

clear indicater lenses for the front bumber?

You mean the big square ones on the front? If so.. tell me also when you find the place to get some :)

www.greenline.jp sell the clear lenses for the lowest price I've been able to find.

AFRO: seat covers are not cool...they go into the same basket as car-bras! If you've bought something use it...don't baby it for the next owner to have immaculate seat :)

Coolio,, thanks for that,,, while i'm at it,,, how many of you guys have the 2way/pager alarm systems,, the one where it shows/alerts ya if ur car is being broken into etc etc,, usually has remote engine start features too,,,,

I want to put that in ,,,,,, only one i know that is decent so far is the viper one,,

anyone got any other brands i can look into????

If i stain the seats,, then i'll have the same problems in removing it like u guys are having at the moment. Might have to try BIG KEV'S stain remover,,, :wassup:

heheheheh,,,,,

Coolio,, thanks for that,,,   while i'm at it,,,  how many of you guys have the 2way/pager alarm systems,, the one where it shows/alerts ya if ur car is being broken into etc etc,, usually has remote engine start features too,,,,

I want to put that in ,,,,,, only one i know that is decent so far is the viper one,,

anyone got any other brands i can look into????

If i stain the seats,, then i'll have the same problems in removing it like u guys are having at the moment.  Might have to try BIG KEV'S stain remover,,,   :wassup:  

heheheheh,,,,,

There is a few other ones too.. like. the hornet one.. its made by DFI also. but much better in features. ;)

There is the boom a rang one..

These are the two that I remember from the top of me head.. but am sure there is quiet a few other ones out there. :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi everyone

well i just got my car back from dyno-tuning,

and it produced 177 rwkw in shootout mode,,,,,

i was very suprised,,,

except for the exhaust,,, the Everything is Stock Standard,, the air filter is still the one from factory!! loll,,,

next step,, boosting it up,, ;)

C yazz

Afro

  • 5 months later...
wooo twice more than I'm paying...that's obscene. Hmmm must be bayside if it says TV2.....looks way dark in the picture and not metallic...must be my eyes :)

If it was the R34 from Yorkeys Knob I dont think there is anything wrong with your eyes, went and had a look at it when it was for sale, looked like a respray for sure, so lost interest, couple of big dents too, a nasty one in boot and front spoiler was cracked, but he might have gotten it fixed before you bought it. He had $ 40.000 on it when I looked.

Ouch $2400..... per year

Mines at $1330 and insured for 28k with body kit and rims...

Will go up to $1401 when the boost controler/FMIC/Pod & Exhaust is fitted after christmas...

But watch for the excess... $2500 if its stolen and written off

$2100 for all other claims or $1700 if the rims arent damaged and the car is....

Took me 2 days to read the terms and conditions and understand them properlly...

So if ya gonna have an accident dont hit the gutter.... Hit the other car harder... Dont swerve cause you might hit the rims....LOL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...