Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ahh well lucky most of us on the forum seem happy with the HPI rules, no matter how silly it seems to others and with some of the 60ft's I've seen from the rwd imports 1.6-1.7 I really don't think it will hold anyone back unless they want a reason to whinge or an excuse as to why it didn't happen for them, In short if there car is set us right and they have the power they claim they do a radial tyre will do fine :D

yeah what he said :(

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I really don't think it will hold anyone back unless they want a reason to whinge or an excuse as to why it didn't happen for them...

Well if your saying no one has the right to complain either way, I think I agree too.

Let those who choose radials or cross ply street tyres do so without fear of disrespect, both are accepted regardless of HPI on these forums. Case closed :rant:

Well if your saying no one has the right to complain either way, I think I agree too.

Let those who choose radials or cross ply street tyres do so without fear of disrespect, both are accepted regardless of HPI on these forums. Case closed :rant:

hahaha :bs!: I don't accept the times run on cross ply tyres as being in the same category as times run on radial tyres, as street legal cross ply tyres include Mickey Thompson ET Streets which are a cheater slick no matter how you want to sugar coate the words and I think you'll find most will agree with me or if you like we can start a poll then the Case will be closed

et_street.gif

they even come with a warning " WARNING: ET Street tires have passed D.O.T. requirements but have reduced tread depth and compounds designed for racing. Due to the reduced tread depth these tires should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use!"

hahaha :bs!: I don't accept the times run on cross ply tyres as being in the same category as times run on radial tyres, as street legal cross ply tyres include Mickey Thompson ET Streets which are a cheater slick no matter how you want to sugar coate the words and I think you'll find most will agree with me or if you like we can start a poll then the Case will be closed

et_street.gif  

they even come with a warning " WARNING: ET Street tires have passed D.O.T. requirements but have reduced tread depth and compounds designed for racing. Due to the reduced tread depth these tires should be used on dry pavement only and are not suitable for normal highway use!"

I'd like to remind you that the argument started with all 'crossplys' in general not just ET's.

Having said that it's still a street tyre I'm afraid, even if it is a rather bald one. I understand why I wouldn't want them on my car but, I also understand why people choose them for the sunny sunday cars they drive to the drags.

Lets face it, the argument is over a tyre that you drag race on and drive home on.

I also think if we are talking about crossply's we should mention hoosier (chain link tread) too. If you discriminate against all non radials you lock out Indy profiles and sportsmans in the Mickey T range all of which you might see on a historic muscle car driving around the road.

I'd like to think imports are fast enough even on radials to be put next to the historic 1/4mile blasters of history like the Barrcuda BO29 and others that had only crossply technology. I think they are so I don't see the point in the winge about it being a cheaters tyre. History makes the winger out to be grossly misinformed.

What are you afraid of?

Thats twice now you've made reference to muscle cars and crossply tyres, I can't for the life of me work out what it has to do with RADIAL TYRES and SKYLINES or imports full stop in a Skyline forum

Last time I checked this is a Skyline forum and the question asked was from a person that drives a R32 not a historic Mustang that may agree with your ideas

And if you really want to face facts the arguement is now that most people don't think a crossply tyre should be in the same category as radial tyres in our SAU drag records or HPI records ... NOTE not historic races or USA muscle cars ... and no matter how you want to argue about it in the long run majority rules

Misinformed ... me ... hahaha I've ran the times on radial tyres in my Skyline have you? Oh thats right you love to quote what it could of done, not what its has done like I can :) maybe it was fear holding you back???

Hope someone can help me out with contact details for suppliers of BF Goodrich drag radials and Nitto drag radials in Sydney?

Ideally I want a drag radial to fit a 15"x10" wheel as close as possible to 26" tall. If I can't get somethign decent there I'll have to use my 18"x10" wheels instead.

Appreciate any help.

mate I'm the person who wished you luck on Saturday, which you arrogantly replied no luck needed or was it luck has nothing to do with it hahaha either way maybe you should of been a touch friendlier :)

Any BF Goodrich Sports tyre store can order them in for you, the Nitto's are pretty scarce now as there isn't a Aus supplier

mate I'm the person who wished you luck on Saturday, which you arrogantly replied no luck needed or was it luck has nothing to do with it hahaha either way maybe you should of been a touch friendlier :)

Any BF Goodrich Sports tyre store can order them in for you, the Nitto's are pretty scarce now as there isn't a Aus supplier

Hehe, no arrogance intended, just my warped sense of humour!

hahaha fair enough, its the BFGoodrich Performance Specialist stores you want to contact http://www.bfgoodrich.com.au/html/dealer.australia

The Nittos most of us NSW guys are using were imported privately and passed on to a few of the bigger work shops in Sydney to sell, as far as I know there are none left and he's not planning on importing any more

BF Goodrich do a 275/75/15 which is exactly what your after and from all reports they are as good if not better then the nitto's anyway

Thats twice now you've made reference to muscle cars and crossply tyres, I can't for the life of me work out what it has to do with RADIAL TYRES and SKYLINES or imports full stop in a Skyline forum

Last time I checked this is a Skyline forum and the question asked was from a person that drives a R32 not a historic Mustang that may agree with your ideas

And if you really want to face facts the arguement is now that most people don't think a crossply tyre should be in the same category as radial tyres in our SAU drag records or HPI records ... NOTE not historic races or USA muscle cars ... and no matter how you want to argue about it in the long run majority rules  

Misinformed ... me ... hahaha I've ran the times on radial tyres in my Skyline have you? Oh thats right you love to quote what it could of done, not what its has done like I can :D maybe it was fear holding you back???

Let me see if I can follow your logic.

In the first parragraph you ask what muscle cars have to do with skylines.

It looks like you are saying that a principle that applies to other cars of different brand or make, or country of origin to a skyline does not apply.

I have used the muscle car example of the 'street crossply' only because it's one that easily recognised. A concept which may be transfered to a skyline for possible increased performance over the 1/4 mile.

In the next parragraph.

you are saying that the crossply and radial are in different categories. In previous posts you suggest that one is a street class tyre the other is not.

I don't see why such a poor philosophy and argument should be adopted by our drag racing members? It's true that majority rules, they just aren't necessarily right.

Finally,

You sugest that not having done something in a skyline it makes you misinformed. If I say that according to the theory of gravity when I drop an apple it will fall, according to your logic I will remain misinformed until I drop an apple. Even if I drop pears and bannanas. Because I have driven faster cars than yours over the 1/4mile to better times (and for your information I have) doesn't mean I know more than you. I don't need that fact to make an argument.

I'm sure I'm misinformed about quite alot of things I am yet to be pointed out on. The crossply considered a street tyre is not one of them.

I'd like to remain open minded about this. So if there is some argument I haven't considered please enlighten me. I am happy to learn new things.

hahaha fair enough, its the  BFGoodrich Performance Specialist stores you want to contact

The Nittos most of us NSW guys are using were imported privately and passed on to a few of the bigger work shops in Sydney to sell, as far as I know there are none left and he's not planning on importing any more

BF Goodrich do a 275/75/15 which is exactly what your after and from all reports they are as good if not better then the nitto's anyway

Thanks for your help dude!

When I look at the BFG sites it is a bit confusing. The Comp TA Drag Radials seem to be giving way to gForce TA Drag Radial.

Anyway after much phoning I have some 275/50 R15 at 25.9" tall Comp TA drag radials on the way over the Tasman due to arrive Monday 21/6 in Melbourne. From there to Sydney by Tuesday 22/6 ready for the next WSID street meet, God willing and the creeks don't rise.

If you want to run radials and know that you wont run a Qtr as fast, then that’s up to you. Don’t complain about it and make excuses about “I run radials etc.” At the end of the day, it’s the ET that counts. How you get it is up to you.

Yeah, I am aware that you usually drop the trap speed to gain ETs when changing from street tyres to DRs or slicks.

I am perfectly willing to trade down from 132 mph to get into the 11s. I'm also wondering if the traps will drop given that I'm wheelspinning in all five gears on the street tyres.

I'm probably more likely to hit the rev limiter in top gear (136.8 mph with 275/50 R15 DRs), unless the DRs grow a tad like slicks?

The Comp TA Drag Radials seem to be giving way to gForce TA Drag Radial.

The Comp TA's are what you're after, dude. Check out some pics of Nabil's 8THSIN Supra launching on the size you're talking about and you'll be immediately convinced. The gForce radials from BFG are designed with the American FWD market in mind. This is demonstrated by the sizes in which they are available. That's not to say that they don't ALSO suit a RWD arrangement (see Ben from UAS's MR2 for more).

Good luck at the next street meet. Hope to see you there. And remember... Luck is ALWAYS part of the equation :D

Adrian

The Comp TA's are what you're after, dude.  Check out some pics of Nabil's 8THSIN Supra launching on the size you're talking about and you'll  be immediately convinced.  The gForce radials from BFG are designed with the American FWD market in mind.  This is demonstrated by the sizes in which they are available.  That's not to say that they don't ALSO suit a RWD arrangement (see Ben from UAS's MR2 for more).

Good luck at the next street meet.  Hope to see you there.  And remember... Luck is ALWAYS part of the equation

Adrian

Hee hee, you're right about luck Adrian!

I've got Comp TAs on the way so hopefully they'll be on the car next Wednesday. I've never launched with DRs so I've got a bit of learning to do there. With my street tyres anything over 2,200RPM on launch was a smokefest. I'd love to be able to launch higher ...

What sort of pressure should I try for starters on DRs with a 2900 lb car? And what sort of burnout if any makes sense for DRs?

2900lb is lighter than my R33 and I run 13-14psi in the Nitto's. I'd try 18psi in them to start with and *maybe* drop it to as far as 12 from there. Obviously you'd do that in increments to guage the best pressure.

As far as burnouts go, I have never been one for massive smoke-shows. In fact, I have read on American Supra & Mustang forums that the BF's require only a small burnout to get them to an acceptable operating temperature. Take the marketing with a grain of salt as when they say, "Little or no burnout req'd" they are REALLY trying to say, "These things wear out fuggin' quick and if you don't shred them, they'll last longer."

Also, you should find that you don't have to do as big a burnout as the first one during the course of a day. They do actually retain some heat.

In terms of launching, I have absoluteley no idea what will work well with your car. Radial tyres, (soft compound or not) don't behave in the same balooning type of way as drag slicks due to their radial construction. The radial belts hold the shape for road driving as well as race driving.

They do however squat like a bastard!!

Good luck mate!!

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...