Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Got my engine rebuilt forged internals etc standard head just with 256 cams

Cranked the engine to build oil pressure, cranked it for like 5secs got 80psi pressure, started the car up and straight away lifters started tapping off its head,

Before anyone says take it to engine builder, I will on Monday when he open but been weekend Ill like to try work out what's wrong with it,

Nitto oil pump, still running VCt, blocked middle, 1.5m rear restritors,

Only thing I'm thinking is engine builder didnt do cleanances right? But I highly doubt it,

Bad lifters? How can I tell?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/419630-urgent-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Hydraulic lifters sorry,

Thought that as well, we had it at normal temps, (half way) took it just for short drive under 3000rpms and still ticking,

It seems to rev slow like it revs and the come down revs is slightly sorry

I was so nervous to start it as I have had so many issues in regards to work that was done on it, I didn't wanna start it... But just from

How loud they are and all the time doing it, I didn't wanna risk driving it and causing more damage, but yes they have been out of the motor for about 7months dry,

If its a fresh build you shouldn't be idling it or taking it on a light/brief drive.

You should be seating the rings or you'll stuff the build entirely. Tow it to the builder/dyno Monday and don't keep starting it now. All you should do on a fresh build is let it run for a couple mins just so you find any potential water/oil/air leaks etc.

yeah fair things i wanna check like cam cover just to make sure its not hitting it was late yesterday arvo 5pm and once i heard the noise i didnt want anything to do with it for the day was a let down she packed up closed the shop lol

Was the previous engine blow up a spun bearing by any chance??

It's so common this happens when a small bearing particle blocks the head oil feed from the previous blow up and you end up with stuff all oil to the head.

It's bloody hard to have the galleries cleaned out perfectly unless the original restrictors are removed.

A lot of engines I've seen built by various Motorsport teams like the supercars have external feeds to the cylinder head with inline filters to prevent this happening.

Hole bottom end was destroyed in the old motor, started again with block and crank, only think that didnt change was the head, but engine builder knew what happen with old motor and I told him to wash the head and he said he would do that,

Only thing that was used from the spun bearing motor was the head, lifters and cams? Could these of been f**ked from the old motor? I asked the engine builder to check everything to make sure it was all good to go back in

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...